Switzerland

Switzerland · Grimsel

Sagittarius

A Grimsel granite classic: low-angle slabs lead to the famous 6a+ crack pitches and a thin 6b traverse, then steeper, sculpted ground. Sustained at 5c/6a throughout.

6b13 pitches400 m★★★

Switzerland · Gastlosen

Salü Jan

One of the busiest routes in the Gastlosen: homogeneous, technical climbing on beautiful fluted slabs (cannelures) that dry fast. The top third is broken by grassy ledges.

6a12 pitches380 m★★★

Switzerland · Saas Valley

Alpendurst

Fourteen pitches of steady 4b and 4c on good gneiss that finish at the summit cross of a 3206 m peak, reached from a gondola. It is the best-known plaisir route on the Jegihorn, closely bolted with chained belays, and often climbed in mountain boots as a first long alpine rock route. Expect company: it is very busy in high summer.

4c14 pitches350 m★★★

Switzerland · Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif)

La Moquette

Nine pitches up a granite spur and the final tower of the Aiguille d'Orny to a 3150 m summit, on rough, cracked rock with superb friction. Two moves of 5b, the rest 4b and 4c, closely bolted since 2016 and easy enough to climb in boots. The three steep pitches on the summit tower are the highlight.

5b9 pitches250 m★★★

Switzerland · Vaud Alps

Remix

The bolted way up the Miroir d'Argentine: fourteen pitches of compact limestone slab, with the difficulties in the first four pitches and long, easy, run-out friction above. A big day out at a modest grade with a mountain walk-off. Do not underestimate it.

5c+14 pitches400 m★★★

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Switzerland · Furka

Conquest of Paradise

The classic of the Hannibalturm: six short, wandering pitches of slab, quartz veins, cracks and a 6a+ slab crux on perfect high-mountain granite at 2800 m. A bench and a bus-stop sign wait on the summit. Very popular, so expect company.

6a+6 pitches180 m★★★

Switzerland · Grimsel

Savoir Vivre

Fourteen pitches up the Gelmerfluh next to Sagittarius, and by several accounts the better route: a knife-cut flake, a finger-to-hand crack worthy of Chamonix, corners, a pendulum and Grimsel slab, then easier quartz-veined walls to the top. Mostly 5c to 6a, with two short slab cruxes that almost everyone aids.

6c+14 pitches400 m★★★

Switzerland · Sanetsch

Follomi

The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.

6c8 pitches250 m★★★

Switzerland · Grimsel

Grimselstrom

Glacier-polished slabs straight above the Räterichsboden dam. Four warm-up pitches lead to sustained 5b–5c slab and a short fissured roof (6a or A0).

6a11 pitches220 m★★★

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Switzerland · Susten

Plattenweg

Relaxed, low-angle granite slab climbing on small edges, 15 minutes from the Sustenpass road. It makes an ideal first alpine-granite multipitch.

5b+7 pitches200 m★★★

Switzerland · Ticino

Quarzader

Slab pitches give way to a vertical wall threaded with quartz veins, which gives the route its name. It is shady in the morning, and the pitches are short (about 35 m), so 11 go quickly.

6a11 pitches400 m★★★

Switzerland · Saas Valley

Südkante (South Ridge)

The left edge of the Jegihorn's south face: a 1922 ridge climb turned into a bolted outing of many short pitches, mostly grade 3 and 4. The one real step is the red gendarme, a well-bolted pitch of 5a. More varied than Alpendurst, with slabs, a short steep wall and narrow sections of crest, and a summit finish at 3206 m.

5a18 pitches300 m★★★

Switzerland · Saas Valley

Panorama

The right-hand of the Jegihorn's three easy bolted routes and the quietest. Ten long pitches up low-angled slabs and then a steeper, airy central section on sharp flakes and edges, finishing along a short crest to the 3206 m summit. Bolts are further apart than on Alpendurst and the belays are unlinked, so it suits a leader who is steady at 4c.

5a10 pitches360 m★★★

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Switzerland · Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

Salamander

Eight short pitches of 4b to 5a on compact, grippy gneiss slabs above the Wiwannihütte, finishing on a 2880 m summit. Pitches 3 and 4 climb a big steep slab that is the heart of the route. Chained belays and an abseil descent make it the gentlest introduction to the Wiwanni routes, though the starting pitches feel stiff for 4b.

5a8 pitches180 m★★★

Switzerland · Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

Ostgrat (East Ridge)

A 17-pitch bolted ridge to a 3001 m summit. Three slab and wall pitches of 5a and 5b come first, then a long run of grade 3 and 4 on the crest that many parties climb moving together, with one fine 5a in the middle. A full mountain day: the summit ridge beyond the last bolt and the scrambling descent are part of it.

5b17 pitches400 m★★★

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Switzerland · Susten

Jugendweg

Seven easy, unsustained pitches of edged slab on the left side of the Steingletscher slabs, never harder than 4b. The line is obvious and the glacier scenery is the main event. A good first multipitch, and easy to pair with a neighbouring route the same day.

4b7 pitches200 m★★★

Switzerland · Saas Valley

Schmetterling

Ten short pitches of grade 4 on superb red-brown gneiss at 2900 m, ten minutes from the Almagellerhütte. Steep little slabs with good holds, closely bolted, and often climbed in mountain boots. An ideal first high-mountain multipitch or an afternoon route after the walk up to the hut.

4c10 pitches150 m★★★

Switzerland · Ticino

Nika

The easy neighbour of Quarzader: seven pitches of gneiss slab and small steps up the right-hand spur above the Maggia, at 4b if you take the right-hand finish. Much quieter than Quarzader and very well bolted. Finish with a swim in the river.

4b7 pitches250 m★★★

Switzerland · Glarus (Brüggler)

Highway

Seven homogeneous pitches of grade 5 up the middle of the Brüggler's big limestone slab, much of it on water runnels, finishing among the pines near the summit cross. Never hard, but it climbs all the way and the bolts are not close. Best if you are solid at 5c.

5b7 pitches200 m★★★

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Switzerland · Grimsel

Bügeleisen

A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.

6a5 pitches200 m★★★

Switzerland · Bernese Oberland

Todi

Four pitches of steep, compact limestone opposite the Eiger: a stiff 6a+ warm-up, a short bouldery 7a crux on small edges, a 6b through little roofs on good holds, and a superb, sustained 7a wall of pockets to finish. Short enough to climb without a pack, and the 7a grades are reckoned friendly.

7a4 pitches120 m★★★

Switzerland · Saas Valley

Verdauungsweg

The 'digestion route': four 20 m pitches of grade 3 and 4 on solid gneiss, fifteen minutes above the Almagellerhütte at 2900 m. Very closely bolted, with iron rods to stand on at the two steepest steps, and well suited to practising in mountain boots or to a first multipitch after the walk up to the hut.

4b4 pitches80 m★★★

Switzerland · Grimsel

Roadrunner

Seven pitches of smooth, low-angle Grimsel granite, almost all pure friction, with two short steeper steps. Technically easy, but you have to trust your feet. A gentle introduction to Grimsel slab and to multipitch rope work.

4c7 pitches200 m★★★