Hintisberg · Bernese Oberland · Switzerland
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Four pitches of steep, compact limestone opposite the Eiger: a stiff 6a+ warm-up, a short bouldery 7a crux on small edges, a 6b through little roofs on good holds, and a superb, sustained 7a wall of pockets to finish. Short enough to climb without a pack, and the 7a grades are reckoned friendly.
The route
Todi is a four-pitch Remy brothers route in the right-hand central sector of Hintisberg, the limestone crag above the Grindelwald valley with a full view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. It packs two pitches of 7a into 120 m. The first 7a is a short crux low on pitch 2, followed by easier climbing on horizontal breaks; the second is a long, homogeneous wall of pockets and edges that everyone calls the best pitch. In between, pitch 3 goes through a series of small roofs that look intimidating but have good holds. Several parties find the 7a grades soft, nearer 6c and 6c+.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | Straight into the atmosphere: not easy for the grade when cold, with two marked moves. |
| P2 | 7a | A short crux near the second bolt on small edges formed by knobs, then easier climbing on breaks with long reaches. Some rate the crux 6c. |
| P3 | 6b | Several small roofs, impressive but on good holds, steep for the grade. The bolts can be hard to spot. Exit on a huge jug. |
| P4 | 7a | A slightly fierce start, then a sustained, technical vertical wall on pockets, water drops and edges. The best pitch; some rate it 6c+. |
Getting there
Leave the Interlaken to Grindelwald road at the Restaurant Stalden and pay the road toll at the restaurant (8 to 10 CHF reported). Go under the small tunnel and follow the road all the way up to Alp Hintisberg (1650 m). Continue on the gravel road; a hairpin to the right leads to a hamlet with a small restaurant. Pass it and park on the left about 100 m further on.
From the parking you are below the cliff and an obvious marked path leads up to it. Camptocamp gives 30 minutes from the Berghaus Hintisberg; one party reports under 40 minutes. Todi is in the right-hand central sector, with its name marked at the foot; TNT starts close by, with its name engraved on a small ledge 5 to 6 m above the path.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Unterläger, Alp Hintisberg (camptocamp waypoint 241976)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 241971
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.66126, 7.95266 (crag) · Parking: 46.65450, 7.95256
Getting down
Abseil the route. With two 60 m ropes it goes in two abseils: from the top to the belay just beside the second belay, then to the ground with the rope at full stretch. With 50 m ropes use the intermediate belays.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent, and with only four pitches you are never far from the ground. You can go down from any belay.
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing at around 2000 m. Reports run from late May to mid-August; midsummer days are hot, with a breeze helping. The rock is excellent and a little polished. It is a popular crag (14 cars at the parking on a July Saturday) but parties spread out across the routes.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Bernese Oberland are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws and two 50 m ropes. Helmet. No trad gear: on the neighbouring TNT camptocamp notes that nuts and cams are hard to place anyway.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Todi.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Around 7a · about 4 pitches
Croatia · Paklenica
A short, hard line high on the shady north face of Anića kuk: a steep 6a+, a 7a corner on razor-sharp small edges, a slightly overhanging 6c+ corner and a long finish up water runnels. The rock is sharp and superb from the first metre. Good as a half-day or combined with a neighbour.
7a4 pitches130 m
France · Ariège Pyrenees
The hard classic of the Calamès pillars above Bédeilhac: technical slabs, a well-bolted roof and a sustained 6c wall, capped by a short 7a slab pitch after a walk across a garden. Compact rock and close bolts make it a good place to try harder grades on a multipitch. The middle pitch is vegetated.
7a5 pitches180 m
Morocco · Akchour (Rif)
Five pitches through tufa columns, a leaning corner and a lichenous chimney on extraordinarily abrasive rock. The first pitch is a three-dimensional 6a+ on jugs between columns and the 7a fourth pitch is an athletic, well-bolted column climb. Two short passages on the easier pitches are run-out.
7a5 pitches160 m
Read the cautions
Turkey · Aladağlar
Five pitches on very rough red and grey limestone ten minutes from the car park, with long 5c to 6a+ pitches on knobs and water-worn flutings. The only hard climbing is one physical 7a move on the last pitch, which can be aided. Recommended locally as the route to do on this wall.
7a5 pitches245 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.