Multipitch Atlas

Grimsel

Switzerland

The Haslital, between Guttannen and the Grimsel Pass, has glacier-polished granite slabs: Handegg, Gelmerfluh and the Räterichsbodensee Seeplatten. Bolting is generous on stainless steel, and most approaches from the pass road take 15 to 20 minutes. The season is June to September.

Routes
5
Grade span
4cto6c+
Longest route: Sagittarius
400 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Loading map

Räterichsbodensee, between Gelmerfluh and the Seeplatten · 1,777 m

Monthly climate averages for Grimsel, 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMarAprMay (usual season)Jun (usual season)Jul (usual season)Aug (usual season)Sep (usual season)Oct (usual season)NovDec
Mean daily high °C−3−12591417171382−2
Mean daily low °C−8−8−5−2268951−4−8
Rain days 1 mm or more141215151819201815141515
Sunshine hours a day6.47.59.010.310.811.512.010.79.38.06.35.7

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1777 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

5 routes

Routes in Grimsel

Photo-topo of Sagittarius on the Gelmerfluh, Grimsel

Switzerland · Grimsel

Sagittarius

A Grimsel granite classic: low-angle slabs lead to the famous 6a+ crack pitches and a thin 6b traverse, then steeper, sculpted ground. Sustained at 5c/6a throughout.

6b13 pitches400 m

The crack of pitch 5 (Kurvenriss) on Savoir Vivre, Gelmerfluh

Switzerland · Grimsel

Savoir Vivre

Fourteen pitches up the Gelmerfluh next to Sagittarius, and by several accounts the better route: a knife-cut flake, a finger-to-hand crack worthy of Chamonix, corners, a pendulum and Grimsel slab, then easier quartz-veined walls to the top. Mostly 5c to 6a, with two short slab cruxes that almost everyone aids.

6c+14 pitches400 m

Photo-topo of Grimselstrom on the Seeplatten above the Räterichsbodensee, Grimsel

Switzerland · Grimsel

Grimselstrom

Glacier-polished slabs straight above the Räterichsboden dam. Four warm-up pitches lead to sustained 5b–5c slab and a short fissured roof (6a or A0).

6a11 pitches220 m

Read the cautions

Looking down the lichen-covered granite slab of Bügeleisen towards the forest at Handegg

Switzerland · Grimsel

Bügeleisen

A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.

6a5 pitches200 m

Photo-topo of the Donald Duck slab at Gerstenegg with Roadrunner (red) and Donald Duck (yellow)

Switzerland · Grimsel

Roadrunner

Seven pitches of smooth, low-angle Grimsel granite, almost all pure friction, with two short steeper steps. Technically easy, but you have to trust your feet. A gentle introduction to Grimsel slab and to multipitch rope work.

4c7 pitches200 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

Italian

corda
rope
rinvio
quickdraw
spit, fix
bolt
sosta
belay, anchor
tiro
pitch
Blocca!
Take!
Corda!
Slack!
Recupera!
Take in!

German

Seil
rope
Expresse, Exe
quickdraw
Bohrhaken
bolt
Stand
belay, anchor
Seillänge
pitch
Zu!
Take!
Seil!
Slack!
Seil ein!
Take in!

Switzerland

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