Multipitch Atlas

Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

Switzerland

The Wiwanni cirque lies above Ausserberg on the sunny north side of the Rhône valley in Upper Valais, on the southern edge of the Bietschhorn group. Around the Wiwannihütte (2470 m) the hut lists about fifty multipitch routes on compact gneiss, from well-bolted alpine plaisir lines on the Wiwannihorn (3001 m) and the Augstkummenhorn to demanding routes for experienced climbers. Ausserberg has a station on the Lötschberg mountain line between Brig and Goppenstein; a toll road continues to Fuxtritt (1851 m), from where the hut is a walk of about 1 h 30. Approaches and descents are alpine terrain with snow patches early in the summer. In 2026 the hut was wardened until 18 October; the climbing season is roughly July to September.

Routes
2
Grade span
5ato5b
Longest route: Ostgrat (East Ridge)
400 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal) are not available yet

2 routes

Routes in Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

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Switzerland · Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

Salamander

Eight short pitches of 4b to 5a on compact, grippy gneiss slabs above the Wiwannihütte, finishing on a 2880 m summit. Pitches 3 and 4 climb a big steep slab that is the heart of the route. Chained belays and an abseil descent make it the gentlest introduction to the Wiwanni routes, though the starting pitches feel stiff for 4b.

5a8 pitches180 m

The Wiwannihorn from near the hut; the east ridge is the right-hand skyline

Switzerland · Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)

Ostgrat (East Ridge)

A 17-pitch bolted ridge to a 3001 m summit. Three slab and wall pitches of 5a and 5b come first, then a long run of grade 3 and 4 on the crest that many parties climb moving together, with one fine 5a in the middle. A full mountain day: the summit ridge beyond the last bolt and the scrambling descent are part of it.

5b17 pitches400 m

Read the cautions

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

Italian

corda
rope
rinvio
quickdraw
spit, fix
bolt
sosta
belay, anchor
tiro
pitch
Blocca!
Take!
Corda!
Slack!
Recupera!
Take in!

German

Seil
rope
Expresse, Exe
quickdraw
Bohrhaken
bolt
Stand
belay, anchor
Seillänge
pitch
Zu!
Take!
Seil!
Slack!
Seil ein!
Take in!

Switzerland

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