Spain
These are the famous red conglomerate 'mallos' of Huesca province, steep walls up to 300 m covered in bulging 'panzas' and cobbles, rising straight above the villages of Riglos and Agüero. Peña Rueba, just north at Murillo de Gállego, has newer, well-bolted long routes in a gentler style. The base is Riglos or Murillo de Gállego, about 1 h north-west of Huesca on the A-132. The south faces are good from October to May and are far too hot in summer. Expect vultures overhead and nesting restrictions on some lines.
Where and when
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Riglos village under the mallos
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22 routes
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
This is the gentlest way to sample Riglos. Polished pockets and two bulging 'panzas' lead to a 6a crux that can be pulled through on the bolts (A0). The upper spur is easy, and the Pisón towers loom close by.
6a7 pitches175 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A long beginner's big route on good conglomerate at a moderate angle. Pitches can be linked in pairs with a 60 m rope. A four-pitch headwall with a couple of panzas finishes high above the Gállego valley.
5c14 pitches375 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The way up the detached cigar that is the symbol of Riglos, first climbed in 1953. A polished corner, then the chimney between the Puro and the Pisón, then three short pitches on the outside of the needle to a tiny summit. Very polished in the chimney and on the boulder moves. In shade most of the day.
6b10 pitches180 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The famous overhanging line up the left side of the Visera, following the white chalk stripe you can see from the village. A polished, technical 7a pitch low down, then five pitches of ever steeper climbing on huge cobbles where the difficulty is staying un-pumped. Bolts are sound but spaced, and above the third belay the only practical way off is the top.
7a8 pitches250 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The other great line of the Visera, on a concave wall that leans further out the higher you go. Six pitches at 6a to 6b on big cobbles lead to the vulture ledge, then one short, very overhanging crux pitch above enormous exposure. That last pitch is about 7a free, or roughly 6b to 6c with rests on its closely spaced bolts.
7a7 pitches250 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
An airy spur with sustained 5b–5c climbing, a single 6a step on pitch 7, and big views over the Mallos de Riglos and the Pyrenees.
6a9 pitches230 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.
5c5 pitches145 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.
5c4 pitches150 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A good first route at Riglos: seven sustained 6a pitches on the spur of the Frechín, with a grandstand view of the Visera. Manage rope drag on the wandering first pitch.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Just left of José Antonio Sanz and a little less sustained, on better rock than its neighbours.
6a+9 pitches200 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Two chimney pitches, a crack, then a pillar with bulging panzas. The crux is one awkward clip on pitch 7, which you can pull through.
6a+8 pitches250 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A fine short route on the right edge of the Pisón, ending on a big terrace at half height. A vertical wall on small holds on pitch 3 and two hard moves on the last pitch.
6b5 pitches150 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A way up the Pisón at 6a+ if you accept two pitches of pulling on bolts at the start. The seventh pitch is a contender for the best corner at Riglos. Take care with the rock on pitches 3 and 4.
6a+10 pitches270 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
An arm-pumping 6a to start and a superb 6a to finish, with easier ground between. Skip the bolt-and-thread stance under the overhang on pitch 4 and belay 5 m higher.
6a5 pitches125 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A companion to Anorexia at the same grade. One unavoidable boulder move over the first panza, then easier, steady climbing.
5c4 pitches135 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A varied and unusual route: polished cobbles, a chimney belay in an old vulture nest, and an ochre corner. It is recent and not fully cleaned, and two earthy gullies are crossed on pitches 4 and 7.
6a8 pitches260 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Starts past the huge roof on the west face and climbs to the Punta Blanca. A superb short 6a corner on pitch 3, then a long run of grade 4 and 5. In shade in the morning.
6a10 pitches250 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A recent, closely bolted line on the Mallo Frechín and a good way to get to know Riglos without being frightened. A stiff 6b+ second pitch that many find nearer 6c, then steep, sustained 6a and 6a+ over a succession of bulges on unpolished rock. You can abseil off from the top.
6b+7 pitches190 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The easiest way up a real Riglos summit: five short pitches of 4c on a ramp, a crack and a chimney, steep enough to feel like proper climbing. It is the standard beginners' route and the descent for the whole needle, so expect queues and people abseiling past you. In shade most of the day.
4c5 pitches100 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The name is accurate: four even pitches of 4a to 4b up a gently angled conglomerate spur, with a bolt every few metres. Made for a first multipitch or a first lead, and it finishes on top of the Agüero massif. Combine it with Tierra de Naide or Tierra de Todos on the same face.
4b4 pitches120 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Four 35 m pitches starting 3 m left of the Espolón del Adamelo and finishing at the same belay. Harder and more sustained than its neighbour.
6b4 pitches140 m
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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Five 25 m pitches right of the deep groove on the Colorado, joining Anorexia for the last one. Mediocre rock low on the first pitch.
6a+5 pitches125 m
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