Mallos de Agüero, east face · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
The name is accurate: four even pitches of 4a to 4b up a gently angled conglomerate spur, with a bolt every few metres. Made for a first multipitch or a first lead, and it finishes on top of the Agüero massif. Combine it with Tierra de Naide or Tierra de Todos on the same face.
The route
One of three routes the Sendero Límite team prepared on the slabby east face of the Mallos de Agüero, intended for summer afternoons when the face is in shade. Four pitches of 30 m, each about 4b, climb a spur of moderate angle on rounded cobbles. The grade is very even and the bolting close, so it works well for beginners and for learning rope work. School and club groups use it for exactly that.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4b | 30 m | 9 bolts | An easy-angled slab to a niche, which you leave on the right by a short wall, then straight up. Given 4a/4b. |
| P2 | 4b | 30 m | 11 bolts | Diagonally right, then straight up, then right again to the belay. Eleven bolts and one thread. The best pitch; one party measured 35 m. |
| P3 | 4b | 30 m | 7 bolts | A rising traverse left on good holds, then direct. In 2023 a flake under one bolt at the leftward turn was about to come off: go a metre further along the ledge before climbing the short wall. |
| P4 | 4b | 30 m | 5 bolts | Up above the belay to a niche, out of it on the right and straight to the top. Given 4b/4a. |
Getting there
Agüero is west of Riglos. Coming from Huesca on the A-132, turn left onto the HU-534 about 1 km before Murillo de Gállego. As you reach Agüero take the road on the right to the east car park at the entrance to the village (about 725 m).
About 20 min. From the car park take the path beside the information board (Vuelta a los Mallos de Agüero). It climbs north-east on the true right of the stream bed, passes a boulder with two bolted single pitches, crosses to the other bank at about 760 m and turns north. At about 800 m, where the east face with its deep crack between two spurs is in full view, leave the main path at a cairn and take the small path left towards the descent gully. The start is at the foot of the face, marked with a ribbon.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
GPS line: a line of the walk-in and the descent drawn by its source, not a recorded track. Line drawn on the Camptocamp route page: loop from the Agüero car park to the east face and back. Do not follow it blindly.
GPS line: Camptocamp contributors · CC BY-SA 3.0Point from camptocamp waypoint 1160100
Contains the route point and a GPS line. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.35920, -0.79598 (crag)
Getting down
From the top go to the gully at the north end of the east face. A 2023 party made one long abseil of 30 m there and then followed the path; the opening team describes the same gully as a descent with a delicate down-climb. The belays on the route are also equipped for abseiling.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Every belay is equipped for abseiling and the pitches are 30 m, so you can go down from anywhere with two ropes. The traverses on pitches 2 and 3 mean the abseil line is not perfectly straight.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
East-facing at 800 to 940 m: morning sun, shade in the afternoon. The openers recommend summer afternoons. Reports are from April, late September and late October; the conglomerate dries quickly after light rain.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) are not available yet
What to carry
Camptocamp lists 2×60 m ropes and 16 quickdraws, which is what you need to link the pitches in pairs (expect heavy rope drag). Climbed pitch by pitch, 11 quickdraws cover the longest pitch. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to La Vía Más Fácil de Agüero.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Read the cautions
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Switzerland · Susten
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Switzerland · Ticino
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Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.