Multipitch Atlas

Martola

Mallo Colorado, Riglos · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) · Spain

Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: medium

Five 25 m pitches right of the deep groove on the Colorado, joining Anorexia for the last one. Mediocre rock low on the first pitch.

Mallo Colorado, RiglosPhoto: janic · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

Photo

Mallo Colorado, RiglosPhoto: janic · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
Hardest pitch
6a+
Pitches
5
Length
125 m
Approach
30 min
Aspect
SW
South-west-facing
Rope
2×50 m
Read before you go

Fully bolted with abseil-equipped belays, but the first (crux) pitch has repeatedly been reported as loose, with a leader fall from a broken hold in 2017 and large cobbles dislodged in 2025.

The route

Overview

A five-pitch bolted route on the south-west side of Mallo Colorado, the first small mallo right of the Visera at Riglos. It starts just right of the deep groove that cuts the lower face and is marked by gold hangers. The first pitch has one or two athletic moves on doubtful rock; above, the climbing is steadier at about grade 5 and joins Anorexia for the final pitch. Bolts are close on the hard moves and spaced where it is easy. It is a short route, about 2 h to 2 h 30 of climbing.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

Pitches of Martola
PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a+–Two hard moves: a boulder problem first, then a move that reads better slightly right of the bolts rather than left. Poor rock, and not only in the first 10 m. The belay is on a terrace.
P25c––
P36a––
P45c50 m5c climbing then walking, about 50 m in all, to a belay on two large yellow rings at the foot of the final step.
P55c–The last pitch of Anorexia: a vertical wall on small holds, then an easing slab to the top.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Base is Riglos (Huesca). Park at the Riglos car park by the refuge (636 m) and walk through the village. No public transport details were found in the sources read.

On foot · about 30 min

About 20 to 30 min from the car park. Walk into the village, take the first street on the right and at its end turn right onto the track signed GR-1 / Camino Natural de la Hoya de Huesca. About 800 m past the village, turn left up the signposted Camino del Cielo path. When level with the Mallo Colorado walls, leave it on faint trails to the foot of the face; the Camptocamp crag page warns that this last path is unclear and often hidden by low vegetation. A 2017 party found it simplest to follow the circular path and then the blue marks, even though it feels like a detour. Martola is the leftmost route before the big groove/crack that scores the south face. Look for gold hangers.

Finding the route · 2 photos

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

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The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

42.35051, -0.72391

Point from OpenStreetMap node 659541730 (Mallo Colorado)

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Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

From the summit, abseil from the large juniper fitted with a cable and ring on the far (east/north) side. The Martola page gives 35 m. Pages for the neighbouring routes describe the same anchor as a 20 to 22 m abseil to a slightly sloping stony ledge, then a fixed rope to the col and the walking path. A third source gives about 40 m to the foot of the north face. The path then leads back round to the base of the route and to Riglos; the abseil lands almost on it.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

Yes. Camptocamp states the belays are equipped for abseiling and the pitches are about 25 m, so you can go down from any of the first three belays. The fourth pitch ends with a walk across a terrace to a belay on two large rings, so from there it is simpler to climb the last 5c pitch to the summit abseil. Pitch 1 is on loose rock and other parties are often close by, so abseil with care.

Retreat from
Belays 1 to 3, by abseiling the route. Belay 4 is on the terrace shared with the neighbouring routes, below the final step; no walk-off from that terrace is described.
Point of no return
None is stated. The terrace at belay 4 is the practical one: it is reached by about 50 m of climbing then walking, and only one pitch remains to the summit juniper and its 20 to 35 m abseil to the path (inference).
Carry
2×50 m covers everything. With 25 m pitches a single 50 m rope may just reach belay to belay, but there is no margin and no source confirms it.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredCamptocamp states that the belays are equipped for abseil and that pitches are 25 m; that this makes a retreat from belays 1 to 3 simple, and the advice at belay 4, are inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Loose rock on pitch 1. In 2017 a climber took a good fall when a hold broke at the exit onto the first belay terrace and judged the rock very mediocre for the whole pitch. In May 2025 a leader dislodged two large balanced cobbles on the same pitch.
  • Bolts are spaced on the easier ground.
  • Loose stones at the belay ledge shared with Anorexia below the last pitch; check hanger colour there to stay on your line.
  • Other routes and parties are close by on this face; take care not to drop stones on them.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-west facing. The Camptocamp crag page lists March to June and September to October. Several reports mention wind, particularly at the abseil; one party climbed in 90 km/h gusts and rated conditions poor.

Usual season · Feb to May, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · SW-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

  • January: not yet worked out
  • February (usual season): not yet worked out
  • March (usual season): not yet worked out
  • April (usual season): not yet worked out
  • May (usual season): not yet worked out
  • June: not yet worked out
  • July: not yet worked out
  • August: not yet worked out
  • September: not yet worked out
  • October (usual season): not yet worked out
  • November (usual season): not yet worked out
  • December (usual season): not yet worked out

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

Climate figures for Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) are not available yet

What to carry

Gear

The 2×50 m listed here covers every abseil variant reported. 12 quickdraws are enough if you stop at every belay (2025 report). Helmet. Belays are equipped for abseiling.

Checklist

Quickdraws
12
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Martola.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Pitches are short (about 25 m according to Camptocamp), so the route goes quickly: reports give 2 h, 2 h 15 and 2 h 30.
  • A 2025 party finished up the overhanging last pitch of Exea instead of the Anorexia pitch.
  • Above pitch 1 the rock improves and the climbing was described by one party as about V-.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Only Camptocamp describes Martola itself; no independent write-up was found. The approach and descent were cross-checked against a blog description of Anorexia, which shares the final pitch and the summit abseil.
  • Summit abseil length: 35 m (Martola page), 20 to 22 m plus fixed rope (Anorexia and Carla pages), about 40 m (Costra y Pus), or 45 m in one go (a 2019 Carla report). These are different stopping points on the same descent; carry enough rope for the longest.
  • Approach time: 20 min (2025 report), 27 to 31 min (timed reports for neighbouring routes), 45 min (crag page).
  • The Camptocamp page gives 135 m of height gain; the 125 m listed here matches five 25 m pitches.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.