Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Spain

Sa Gubia is a huge limestone gorge at the edge of the Serra de Tramuntana, just north of Palma off the Ma-11 Sóller road near Bunyola. It holds the island's best bolted multipitch, most of it in the 6a–6c range on walls up to about 200 m. The approach is a 40–45 min walk up a dry riverbed from the parking. Climb from autumn to spring, and don't leave valuables in the car.

Routes: 3
Grade span: 6ato6b+
Longest route: Via Llum de Lluna: 216 m

Where and when

Location and climate

When to go where

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Sa Gúbia, Bunyola

Climate figures for Mallorca (Sa Gubia) are not available yet

3 routes

Routes in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

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Sa Gubia seen from the Sóller road, Mallorca

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Via Llum de Lluna

Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.

6b5 pitches216 m

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Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

La Ley del Deseo

A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.

6a6 pitches152 m

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Sol Solet

Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.

6b+5 pitches200 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

All words and calls

Spanish

cuerda: rope
cinta exprés: quickdraw
chapa: bolt hanger
reunión: belay, anchor
largo: pitch
¡Pilla!: Take!
¡Dame cuerda!: Slack!
¡Reunión!: Safe, I'm at the belay

Catalan

corda: rope
cinta exprés: quickdraw
xapa: bolt hanger
reunió: belay, anchor
llarg: pitch
Pilla!: Take!
Dona'm corda!: Slack!
Reunió!: Safe, I'm at the belay

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