Multipitch Atlas

Via Llum de Lluna

Sa Gubia – Sector Princesa · Mallorca (Sa Gubia) · Spain

Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: high

Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.

Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
5
Length
216 m
Approach
45 min
Aspect
–
Not recorded
Rope
1×70 m
Read before you go

Bolted and 6b at most on paper, but rests on one short topo entry, is sustained at 6a+ to 6b, and is easy to confuse with a neighbouring line.

The route

Overview

Via Llum de Lluna is a five-pitch sport route in the Princesa sector of Sa Gubia, near Bunyola. Every pitch is 6a or harder and the last two are 6b, so it is sustained throughout. Published information is sparse: the one page that could be read in full is a short theTopo entry. Treat it as a route for a confident 6b party and take the neighbouring-line warning below seriously.

In pictures

Photos

  • The areaThe Puig de s'Alqueria (the Sa Gubia massif, right) and Puig de Son Nassi seen from the Sóller railway near Bunyola.Photo: Joan Gené · CC0

Approach photo

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGrade
P16a+
P26a+
P36a
P46b
P56b

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

From Palma drive north on the Ma-11 towards Sóller. Shortly after the junction where the Ma-2010 leaves for Bunyola there is a large car park by a restaurant. Park there. Mountain Project reports regular car break-ins: leave nothing in the car.

On foot · about 45 min

About 45 minutes from the car (Mountain Project). Cross the road, walk back past the roundabout and take the small road that leaves almost at right angles to the Ma-2010, past houses on the right. The tarmac turns to dirt; about 400 m later pass a house with stables on the left. Just beyond, a dry stream bed crosses the track: turn right up it and follow it for 800 m or more, watching for cairns. Right-hand forks lead in turn to Silicona, Excalibur, Isla Bonita, then Princesa. A search summary of the UKC page places the route left of the route Princesa.

Finding the route · 1 photo

  • OverviewSa Gubia from the Ma-11 Palma–Sóller road: it is the left-hand peak, with the gorge cut into its left side; Puig de Son Nasi and Puig de Son Poc are to its right. The car park is beside this road.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 3.0

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

39.69600, 2.67203

Point from thetopo.com / 27crags crag 442 (Sa Gubia)

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Abseil the route. theTopo says the abseil rings are painted red and the belay rings green. The figure of six abseils of 35 m comes from the UKC/Rockfax entry, which was seen only in a search summary.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

Yes. The route is equipped for abseiling and that is its normal descent: theTopo says the abseil rings are painted red and the belay rings green. A UKC/Rockfax search summary gives six abseils of 35 m, which fits a single 70 m rope. Detail is thin, so note where the red rings are as you climb.

Retreat from
From the red-ringed abseil stations down the line of the route. Six abseils for five pitches implies at least one station that is not a belay, and no source says where it is. It is not confirmed that every green belay also has a red abseil ring.
Carry
1×70 m rope for 35 m abseils (the length is from an unconfirmed search summary). Knot the ends. Stay on the dark green bolts and red rings; Negra Flor, just right, has black bolts.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredtheTopo states the red abseil rings and green belay rings; the six 35 m abseils come from a UKC/Rockfax search summary, and the 70 m rope is inferred from that figure.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Wrong-route risk: a logbook comment (search summary only) says Negra Flor, 6b, runs slightly to the right with black-painted bolts and is easily confused with this route, whose bolts are a faded dark green.
  • Car break-ins at the Sa Gubia parking are reported as regular.
  • theTopo's Sa Gubia page carries a climber's advice to check descent options well in advance on the multipitch routes.

Sun and weather

Conditions

Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall

No estimate: the wall's aspect is not recorded for this route.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C121214172125282924201513
Mean daily low °C77810141720211815118
Rain days 1 mm or more776653237998

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 400 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

Not published in the sources read. Six 35 m abseils (unconfirmed search summary) would fit a single 70 m rope.

Checklist

Quickdraws
Number not given in the sources
Rope
1×70 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Via Llum de Lluna.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Use the paint to navigate: green rings mark belays, red rings mark abseil stations.
  • theTopo notes that climbing at Sa Gubia is not always permitted and asks you to leave room for residents and farm machinery when parking; check current access locally.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Only theTopo's short entry was readable in full. The UKC/Rockfax page (216 m, five pitches, six 35 m abseils) could not be read in full and is quoted from a search summary, so length and abseil details are unconfirmed.
  • Six abseils for five pitches implies at least one intermediate station; no readable source explains where.
  • The notes here about a 'powerful finish' and spaced bolts on the easy slab of pitch 5 could not be verified from any page read in full.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

All routes in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

La Ley del Deseo

A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.

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Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Sol Solet

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Read the cautions

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.