Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Via Llum de Lluna
Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.
6b5 pitches216 m
Read the cautions
La Ley del Deseo
Sa Gubia – Bomberos wall · Mallorca (Sa Gubia) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.
- Hardest pitch
- 6a
- Pitches
- 6
- Length
- 152 m
- Approach
- 45 min
- Aspect
- –
- Not recorded
- Rope
- –
The route
Overview
La Ley del Deseo is a six-pitch bolted route on the Bomberos wall of Sa Gubia, described on Mountain Project as one of the more moderate and popular lines there. It climbs to the junction with Albahida (the Gubia Normal); from there you can add Albahida's easy last pitch to the summit. The line doubles as the abseil descent for Albahida, so expect parties coming down. Allow a full day with the 45-minute approach.
In pictures
Photos
The areaThe Puig de s'Alqueria (the Sa Gubia massif, right) and Puig de Son Nassi seen from the Sóller railway near Bunyola.Photo: Joan Gené · CC0
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
6a6a5b5c5c6a
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | A photo caption on Mountain Project says pitches 1 and 2 link into one long clean pitch with a couple of thoughtful sections. |
| P2 | 6a | A harder variation just to the right is listed separately as Sonrisa Vertical. |
| P3 | 5b | – |
| P4 | 5c | – |
| P5 | 5c | Moves right. A photo caption says it looks bushy but climbs clean. |
| P6 | 6a | Ends where the route joins Albahida. Albahida's final pitch (about 3+/4) continues to the summit. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
From Palma drive north on the Ma-11 towards Sóller. Shortly after the junction where the Ma-2010 leaves for Bunyola there is a large car park by a restaurant. Park there. Mountain Project reports regular car break-ins: leave nothing of value, leave the glove box open and remove the parcel shelf so the car looks empty.
On foot · about 45 min
About 45 minutes (Mountain Project calls it the longest and least obvious approach of the crags its author visited). Cross the road, walk back past the roundabout and take the small road that leaves almost at right angles to the Ma-2010, past houses on the right. The tarmac turns to dirt; pass a house with stables on the left, then turn right up the dry, pebbly stream bed and follow it for 800 m or more, watching for cairns. Right-hand forks lead in turn to Silicona, Excalibur, Isla Bonita, Princesa, then Bomberos. The route is the first line of bolts right of an open-book corner full of vegetation.
Finding the route · 1 photo
OverviewSa Gubia from the Ma-11 Palma–Sóller road: it is the left-hand peak, with the gorge cut into its left side; Puig de Son Nasi and Puig de Son Poc are to its right. The car park is beside this road.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 3.0
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from Mountain Project area 109041241 (Bomberos)
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 39.69454, 2.67318 (crag)
Getting down
Descent
Abseil the route. Mountain Project says the line is used as the descent by parties from Albahida as well as from the route itself. Abseil lengths are not published in the sources read. A UKC logbook note on Albahida (search summary only) says to abseil the right-hand side of the ridge, looking in, down the line of La Ley del Deseo, and not to commit to the first two abseils until you are sure where they go.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Yes. The line is an established abseil descent, used by parties coming off Albahida as well as by those on the route, so retreating from a belay means joining a known abseil line. What is missing is numbers: no readable source gives abseil lengths or the rope needed.
- Retreat from
- Any belay, in principle. Stances often have more than one pair of anchors of different types, so check you are on the abseil set. Expect other parties abseiling the same line from above.
- Carry
- Not published. Pitch and abseil lengths are not given in any source that could be read, so the rope length is unknown; knot the ends and check each abseil reaches.
- Basis
- Part stated, part inferredMountain Project states the route is used as an abseil descent and that stances have multiple anchors; that you can therefore retreat from any belay is inferred, and no source gives lengths.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- Stances often have more than one pair of anchors of different types (Mountain Project). Look around and pick the best one, and on the way down make sure you are on the right set.
- The route is the Albahida abseil line: expect parties abseiling over you, with the stonefall and rope tangles that go with that.
- Car break-ins at the parking are reported as regular.
- Abseil lengths are unpublished; an unverified logbook comment (search summary only) warns about finding the first two abseils from the top.
Sun and weather
Conditions
Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall
No estimate: the wall's aspect is not recorded for this route.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 12 | 12 | 14 | 17 | 21 | 25 | 28 | 29 | 24 | 20 | 15 | 13 |
| Mean daily low °C | 7 | 7 | 8 | 10 | 14 | 17 | 20 | 21 | 18 | 15 | 11 | 8 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 7 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 5 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 8 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 400 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Gear
Rope length and quickdraw count are not published in the sources read.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- Number not given in the sources
- Rope
- Length not given in the sources
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to La Ley del Deseo.
Worth knowing
Tips
- Add the last easy pitch of Albahida to reach the summit.
- Pitches 1 and 2 can be linked if your rope allows; one climber did so and skipped a few bolts to manage drag.
- Guiding companies list the route among Sa Gubia's standard multipitch objectives.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Overall grade: Mountain Project gives 6a (5.10a); a guide-service listing on Explore-Share gives 180 m, V+. Mountain Project is the only pitch-by-pitch source, so its 6a is kept.
- Length: 152 m on Mountain Project against 180 m on Explore-Share.
- Pitch count: Mountain Project says six pitches but lists a seventh line, which is Albahida's last pitch, not part of this route.
- The per-pitch grades listed here (6a, 6a, 5b, 5c, 5c, 6a) are only partly confirmed. The Mountain Project page could not be read cleanly: it confirms the pattern (P1, P2 and P6 hardest at 5.10a/6a) but not every intermediate grade.
Provenance
Sources
- Mountain Project – La Ley del DeseoUsed for: grade, pitches, location, protection, descent use
- Mountain Project – Sa GubiaUsed for: driving, parking, approach, break-ins
- Explore-Share – Multipitch rock climbing in MallorcaUsed for: alternative length and grade (180 m, V+)
Same area
More in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
All routes in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Sol Solet
Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.
6b+5 pitches200 m
Around 6a · about 6 pitches
Similar elsewhere
Croatia · Omiš
Rambo
Omiš's signature moderate: long, slabby pitches on knobbly grey limestone with big views over the Cetina mouth and the Adriatic. The crux is a short crack on the final pitch.
6a6 pitches230 m
Germany · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall
Die Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth
Six pitches on excellent grippy limestone with views to the Watzmann, established 2012. Pitch grades are converted from the UIAA topo (6-, 6, 6, 5+, 5+, 6); 5 is obligatory.
6a6 pitches165 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Espolón del Adamelo
This is the gentlest way to sample Riglos. Polished pockets and two bulging 'panzas' lead to a 6a crux that can be pulled through on the bolts (A0). The upper spur is easy, and the Pisón towers loom close by.
6a7 pitches175 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Aosta Valley
Barabba
A pretty plaisir route on edgy, quartz-studded granite slabs beneath the Mont Blanc massif. The crux is a short bulge and steep juggy wall on P4. Camptocamp rates it 'great'.
6a7 pitches180 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.