Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Via Llum de Lluna
Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.
6b5 pitches216 m
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Sol Solet
Sa Gubia – Sector Princesa · Mallorca (Sa Gubia) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b+
- Pitches
- 5
- Length
- 200 m
- Approach
- 30 min
- Aspect
- W
- West-facing
- Rope
- 2×60 m
- 2×50 m only just reaches
The route
Overview
One of the harder bolted lines on the big west-facing wall of Sa Gubia, starting just right of the popular Princesa and sharing a stance with it higher up. The climbing is on steep, featured walls with three pitches of 6b+ and little that is easy; a 2018 party found even the 6a pitches close to 6b+. Rockfax describes five pitches, but parties climb it in anything from three to seven. Descent is by abseil down the route.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
6b+6a6b+6a6b+
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b+ | A long pitch up the steep wall right of the two big holes, past an optional stance, to a small ledge and a hanging belay on the right about 5 m after the second hollow. The climbing goes slightly left of the bolts and finishes up a steep wall on small holds. In the upper part a line of bolts leads left into Princesa: do not follow it. A 2024 party measured about 45 m and graded it 6b. |
| P2 | 6a | Up left, then back right through a steep wall and a crack with a cactus growing in it, to a poor sloping stance. A 2024 party gives 6a+ and about 20 m; a new route shares this belay. |
| P3 | 6b+ | Take the left-hand bolts. Thin moves up and right, then the overhang, which is better not taken too directly, and a slightly overhanging wall on small holds that weaves left then right to a hanging stance. About 30 m. |
| P4 | 6a | Traverse right to an orange wall with good holds, pass an old peg and follow the left-hand line to an exposed, overhanging spur, then a sculpted grey wall. Continue to the stance shared with Princesa. A 2024 party found the first part 6b. |
| P5 | 6b+ | The orange overhang on good holds with a boulder move to exit right, then steep slabs to the top, passing another optional belay. Two belays, one above the other, at the forepeak. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
As for the atlas's existing Sa Gubia routes: from Palma drive north on the Ma-11 towards Sóller. Shortly after the junction where the Ma-2010 leaves for Bunyola there is a large car park by a restaurant, the usual parking for Sa Gubia. Car break-ins are reported there: leave nothing in the car.
On foot · about 30 min
About 30 minutes from the road according to a 2022 party; the atlas entry for the neighbouring Via Llum de Lluna allows 45 minutes. Cross the road, walk back past the roundabout and take the small road that leaves the Ma-2010 past houses. The tarmac turns to dirt; shortly after a house with stables a dry stream bed crosses the track. Turn right up it and follow cairns; right-hand forks lead in turn to Silicona, Excalibur, Isla Bonita and Princesa. Sol Solet is the line of bolts immediately right of Princesa, starting right of two big holes.
Finding the route · 1 photo
OverviewSa Gubia from the Ma-11 Palma–Sóller road: it is the left-hand peak, with the gorge cut into its left side; Puig de Son Nasi and Puig de Son Poc are to its right. The car park is beside this road.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 3.0
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
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The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 820495
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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 39.69515, 2.67311 (crag)
Getting down
Descent
Abseil the route. A 2026 party made three abseils of exactly 50 m. Rockfax says the descent is as for Princesa, and the two routes share a stance. A 2024 party with a single 80 m rope needed five abseils and had to climb back up the rope about 10 m after missing a belay, so do not try it on one rope.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and the belays are bolted, at least some with chains. With two ropes you can retreat from any belay. On a single rope it is a different story: a 2024 party with one 80 m rope came up short several times and had to re-ascend the rope.
- Retreat from
- Any belay.
- Point of no return
- None reported.
- Carry
- Two ropes of at least 50 m, ideally 60 m. Knot the ends.
- Basis
- Stated in the sourcesAbseil descents reported by camptocamp parties in 2018, 2024 and 2026 and given by Rockfax.
Safety
Hazards
- Two routes touch: the line into Princesa on pitch 1, and a newer route sharing the second belay. Check you are on the right bolts.
- Hanging, uncomfortable belays at the top of pitches 1 and 3.
- The abseils are long. With 50 m ropes there is no margin, so knot the ends.
- A cactus in the crack on pitch 2 is in the fall line of the crux.
- Car break-ins at the parking.
Sun and weather
Conditions
West-facing. The route is in the shade in the morning; in late October the sun arrived at about 13:00, and it felt warm even on 1 November. The cirque can be windy. The wall was dry after several days of bad weather in October 2024.
Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January (usual season): not yet worked out
- February (usual season): not yet worked out
- March (usual season): not yet worked out
- April (usual season): not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June: not yet worked out
- July: not yet worked out
- August: not yet worked out
- September: not yet worked out
- October (usual season): not yet worked out
- November (usual season): not yet worked out
- December (usual season): not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Mallorca (Sa Gubia) are not available yet
What to carry
Gear
14 quickdraws plus slings and karabiners for the belays (2024 party). Two ropes for the abseils: 50 m only just reaches, and Rockfax's three-pitch version needs 60 m ropes. Helmet.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 14
- Rope
- 2×60 m (2×50 m only just reaches)
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Sol Solet.
Worth knowing
Tips
- Allow about 2.5 to 3 hours for the climb and 1 hour for the abseils.
- Splitting the first pitch at the new intermediate belay gives six pitches and less rope drag (2026 report).
- Climb it in the morning shade in warm weather, or after 13:00 if you want the sun.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Number of pitches: five in Rockfax and on camptocamp, six in a 2026 report (first pitch split), seven in a 2024 report, and three with 60 m ropes according to Rockfax.
- Pitch grades: Rockfax gives 6b+, 6a, 6b+, 6a, 6b+; a 2024 party gives 6b, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 5c for its seven pitches; a 2018 party found it sustained at 6b+ even on the 6a pitches.
- Length: about 200 m according to a guiding company's listing; no topo length was found, and the 2024 party's approximate pitch lengths total about 175 m.
- Approach time: 30 minutes (2022 camptocamp party) against about 45 minutes quoted for the same sector elsewhere.
Provenance
Sources
- Camptocamp – Sa Gubia: Sol SoletUsed for: pitch grades, position, equipment rating
- Camptocamp – trip reports 2018–2026 (outings 1896938, 1703336, 1479938, 1005264)Used for: pitch detail, equipment, abseils, sun and shade, gear, timings
- UKClimbing logbook – Sol Solet (Rockfax description)Used for: five-pitch description, grades, descent, linking pitches
- Explore-Share – multi-pitch climbing in Mallorca (guided trip listing)Used for: overall length of about 200 m
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.