Austria · Ötztal
Caipirinha
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+5 pitches170 m
Schwarzer Teufel
Wiegelwand (above Ewige Jagdgründe), Ginzling · Zillertal · Austria
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A slab route on the left side of the Wiegelwand with steep passages on small edges; UIAA 7/7+ at the crux on pitch 3, 6 to 6+ obligatory. The easier pitches are a bit grassy. Often wet, so look from below first.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b+
- Pitches
- 5
- Length
- 110 m
- Approach
- 15 min
- Aspect
- SE
- South-east-facing
- Rope
- 1×70 m
The route
Overview
Schwarzer Teufel is on the left part of the Wiegelwand, directly above the sport crag Ewige Jagdgründe near Ginzling. It offers good slab climbing and steep passages on edges; the easier pitches are more rustic, with some grass. The crux is on the third pitch, a mantel followed by a steep finish, graded UIAA 7/7+ (about 6b+ to 6c) with 6 to 6+ obligatory. bergsteigen.com rates it a worthwhile outing that combines well with a visit to the sport crag by the car park.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | – | Small slabs at the start and a rustic beginning; the pitch gets clearly better higher up. |
| P2 | – | Ends with slabs. |
| P3 | – | The crux pitch: a mantel move, which goes more easily with the knees, then a steep finish. |
| P4 | – | Not described beyond photos. |
| P5 | – | The last pitch, which is often wet. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
From the Inn valley motorway drive up the Zillertal to Mayrhofen and on to Ginzling (not towards Hintertux). Continue towards the Schlegeis reservoir; shortly before the toll station and Gasthaus Breitlahner the Ewige Jagdgründe crag is on the left, with a pay car park directly below the wall (about 1235 m). Bus line 4102 from Mayrhofen stops at "GH Breitlahner".
On foot · about 15 min
About 15 min. Right at the entrance to the car park a steep path marked with yellow dots climbs to the rocks. Below the wall traverse left to the start at a clearing.
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
- Parking
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
47.06626, 11.75199
Pay car park Ewige Jagdgründe
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/schwarzer-teufel-wiegelwand (marker labelled approximate)
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.06562, 11.74973 (crag) · Parking: 47.06626, 11.75199
Getting down
Descent
Best by abseiling the route. Alternatively climb right to the top, walk up to the forest road and follow it round to the left back to the car. About 30 min.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the recommended descent, so you can go down from any belay. The rope recommendation is a 70 m single or two 50 m ropes.
- Retreat from
- Any belay.
- Point of no return
- None described.
- Carry
- 1×70 m single rope or 2×50 m.
- Basis
- Stated in the sourcesbergsteigen.com gives abseiling the route as the best descent and the rope lengths.
Safety
Hazards
- Seepage: the wall is often wet.
- You need to climb between the bolts; the upper sixth grade should be secure.
- Grassy, less solid ground on the easier pitches.
Sun and weather
Conditions
East to south-east facing at about 1300 to 1450 m, with morning sun. Season May to October. The wall is often wet, the last pitch in particular; check it from below before starting.
Usual season · May to Oct
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January: not yet worked out
- February: not yet worked out
- March: not yet worked out
- April: not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June (usual season): not yet worked out
- July (usual season): not yet worked out
- August (usual season): not yet worked out
- September (usual season): not yet worked out
- October (usual season): not yet worked out
- November: not yet worked out
- December: not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Zillertal are not available yet
What to carry
Gear
13 quickdraws, a 70 m single rope (or 2×50 m doubles) and a helmet. bergsteigen.com lists no nuts and no cams.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 13
- Rope
- 1×70 m
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Schwarzer Teufel.
Worth knowing
Tips
- About 2 h 30 on the route.
- Schwarze Hand (UIAA 7+) is the neighbouring route of the same length if you want a second line.
- The single-pitch Ewige Jagdgründe crag at the car park dries faster.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- The pitch count (5) is inferred from the bergsteigen.com photo captions, which number pitches 1 to 4 and then "the last pitch"; the topo is behind a login and no second source lists the pitches.
- Protection: the header says "very good", the character text says "quite well protected".
- Rock: Climbers Paradise calls it granite; the Zillertal crags are usually described as granite gneiss.
- Spelling: Wiegelwand (bergsteigen.com) against Wieglwand (Climbers Paradise).
Provenance
Sources
- bergsteigen.com – Schwarzer Teufel, WiegelwandUsed for: grade, protection, approach, descent, gear, conditions, photo notes
- Climbers Paradise Tirol – Klettergebiet WieglwandUsed for: rock, sun, bolting of the wall in general, parking, bus
Around 6b+ · about 5 pitches
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.