Nösslachwand, Längenfeld (Au) · Ötztal · Austria
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
The route
Caipirinha is in the Sonnenblume sector on the left side of the big Nösslachwand. It is a little harder in the middle than at either end: an easy first pitch, slabs and a steep juggy pitch, then a small roof on the fourth pitch that is the only really hard move. bergsteigen.com grades the roof UIAA 7 and says it is easy to aid, which leaves a route of about UIAA 6 (5c+ to 6a+). Climbers Paradise gives 6b+ with 6a+ obligatory.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 3a | 30 m | Easy, with a small waterfall to the right. Shortly before the big ledge with a tree, move right to the belay. |
| P2 | 5c+ | 36 m | Slabs. Climbing directly over the last bolt is harder, perhaps UIAA 7- (about 6a+). |
| P3 | 6a+ | 25 m | Steep and juggy, ending at the belay under the roof. |
| P4 | 6b+ | 17 m | The small roof: UIAA 7 free, straightforward on aid. |
| P5 | 5c+ | 45 m | A long pitch to the route book. |
Getting there
Leave the Inn valley motorway at the Ötztal exit and drive about 18 km up the valley, through Umhausen, to the hamlet of Au just before Längenfeld. Use the signed car park by the river Ötztaler Ache, opposite the small sewage works and chapel; Climbers Paradise asks you not to park at the recycling yard or by the chapel. By public transport: train to Ötztal-Bahnhof, then the valley bus to Au.
About 15 min. From the car park go through the cycle-path underpass to the sewage works, then left on the hiking path towards the Wiesle inn. About 50 m after a wayside shrine, at a clearing, clear path traces lead right to the wall and a platform. Climb onto this ledge and go past the route Sonnenblume, marked by a stone with a sunflower glued to the rock. Caipirinha starts there and is named at the base.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Signed car park by the Ötztaler Ache at Au
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/caipirinha-noesslachwand
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.10930, 10.95390 (route base) · Parking: 47.10560, 10.95314
Getting down
On foot, about 30 min. From the route book follow a ledge left along a fixed rope and go briefly up. Keep left to a meadow, following the markings, and take a path to the hiking trail, which zigzags down to the car park.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The descent is on foot and neither source says how the belays are rigged. The pitches below the last are 17 to 36 m.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
West to south-west facing, 1200 to 1350 m. Season May to October. Best after a dry day. In strong wind the lower part can be damp from the water streak next to the route.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Ötztal are not available yet
What to carry
bergsteigen.com says 10 quickdraws in the text and 12 in its data field; Climbers Paradise says 12 and a 50 m rope. A 60 m single rope is the bergsteigen.com recommendation. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Caipirinha.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Austria · Ötztal
The best-known long route at Nösslach: steep, well-travelled gneiss slabs low down, a zigzag through the big roof zone in the middle, and more slab to finish. Two pitches of about 6b to 6b+, the rest around 6a.
6b+7 pitches200 m
Austria · Ötztal
Steep, exposed gneiss left of the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata, finding a way between huge roofs. The cruxes are the steep slabs of pitches 5 and 6 (6c). Stiffly graded, and the abseil descent is not for everyone.
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Italy · Sardinia
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6b+5 pitches160 m
Austria · Zillertal
A slab route on the left side of the Wiegelwand with steep passages on small edges; UIAA 7/7+ at the crux on pitch 3, 6 to 6+ obligatory. The easier pitches are a bit grassy. Often wet, so look from below first.
6b+5 pitches110 m
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.
6b+5 pitches200 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
Five pitches up the centre of La Pancha, the main wall above Redován. The second pitch climbs the middle of a red pillar with a polished crux on flat holds; the 40 m last pitch is an elegant slab that looks much harder than it is. Outside the bird closure that affects Botri.
6b+5 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.