Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
Código Vertical
A popular modern four-pitch classic on Pared Negra's compact grey limestone, around UIAA 6/6+ (about French 6a). Best on cool, sunny winter days.
6a4 pitches150 m
Tribo
Sierra de Callosa, Redován (La Pancha) · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Five pitches up the centre of La Pancha, the main wall above Redován. The second pitch climbs the middle of a red pillar with a polished crux on flat holds; the 40 m last pitch is an elegant slab that looks much harder than it is. Outside the bird closure that affects Botri.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b+
- Pitches
- 5
- Length
- 150 m
- Approach
- 15 min
- Aspect
- SW
- South-west-facing
- Rope
- –
The route
Overview
A compact sport multipitch on good, compact rock that takes the most logical line up the central part of La Pancha. The difficulty is concentrated in the athletic second pitch; the rest is 5 to 6a with a memorable final slab. It is close to the village, quick to reach and can be abseiled, which makes it a good half-day route. The wall bakes in the sun, so choose a cool day.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
56b+6a5+6a
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5 | 25 m | Easy and pleasant: a slab that steepens, trending slightly left to a hanging belay. Enlavertical gives V and 30 m. |
| P2 | 6b+ | 25 m | Take the bolts in the centre of the red pillar, passing a small roof on the left. Athletic, on orange rock, with a polished crux on flat holds that can be aided from a bolt. Exit up a groove of poorer rock to a comfortable ledge. Enlavertical gives 6b; a direct variant exists. |
| P3 | 6a | 25 m | Slabby and diagonal to the right, easy at first and steeper towards the top, with the hard moves in a short rising traverse on small holds just before a very uncomfortable hanging belay. Enlavertical gives 6a+. |
| P4 | 5+ | 20 m | Traverse left, pass a small bulge that turns an overhanging section, then stepped, slightly grassy ground to a comfortable ledge beside a tree. Athletic for the grade. |
| P5 | 6a | 40 m | A superb slab pitch with holds wherever you need them. The best pitch of the route. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
Redován lies just north of Orihuela in the south of Alicante province. Leave the A-7 at exit 737 (Redován), follow the N-340 towards Orihuela for 2.5 km through San Carlos and turn left at the sign for Redován. Drive up through the village to its highest point and park at the sports centre (polideportivo), 38°07'02"N, 0°54'22"W in the provincial guide.
On foot · about 15 min
About 15 minutes. From the sports centre a well-made path climbs to the foot of La Pancha. The name is marked at the base; take the line of bolts slightly right of the name.
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
- Parking
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
38.11722, -0.90611
Redován sports centre (Senderos de la Roca guide)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 470941
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 38.12040, -0.90393 (crag) · Parking: 38.11722, -0.90611
Getting down
Descent
Three options (enlavertical): abseil the route; walk right along the top to an abseil station and make one abseil of about 40 m, then walk down obvious ground to the base; or walk up and right, climb a corner with a fixed rope and follow red and blue dots to a path marked with yellow dots, which is much longer.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is one of the listed descents and the provincial guide says the La Pancha routes can be descended by abseil. No trouble is reported. The rope length needed is not published.
- Retreat from
- Any belay; two of them are hanging stances.
- Point of no return
- None reported.
- Carry
- Two ropes to be safe: the top pitch is 40 m and others are 20 to 30 m.
- Basis
- Part stated, part inferredAbseil descent stated by enlavertical and the provincial guide; the rope requirement is inferred from pitch lengths.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- The pitch 2 crux is polished.
- Poorer rock in the exit groove of pitch 2 and grassy ground on pitch 4.
- Hanging, uncomfortable belays at the top of pitches 1 and 3.
- Heat on sunny days.
Sun and weather
Conditions
South-west facing at low altitude and very hot: reports from October and November say it was too warm. Best from late autumn to early spring. An evening ascent in November had the sun on the last pitch.
Usual season · Jan to Mar, Nov to Dec
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January (usual season): not yet worked out
- February (usual season): not yet worked out
- March (usual season): not yet worked out
- April: not yet worked out
- May: not yet worked out
- June: not yet worked out
- July: not yet worked out
- August: not yet worked out
- September: not yet worked out
- October: not yet worked out
- November (usual season): not yet worked out
- December (usual season): not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) are not available yet
What to carry
Gear
Quickdraws and belay kit; no source gives a number, though the neighbouring X Capítulos takes 15. No rope length is stated for abseiling the route; the last pitch is 40 m, so a single rope will not do for it.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- Number not given in the sources
- Rope
- Length not given in the sources
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Tribo.
Worth knowing
Tips
- Pitches 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, can be linked with long quickdraws and by skipping a few bolts (camptocamp).
- About 2 hours for the route.
- Todos los Santos (6a+) and X Capítulos (6b) on the same wall are similar in style and length.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Grade: 6a+ in the 2010 provincial guide, 6b on enlavertical, 6b+ on camptocamp (one enlavertical user also logs 6b+). The atlas lists 6b+.
- Pitch lengths and grades: camptocamp gives 25, 25, 25, 20, 40 m at 5, 6b+, 6a, 5+, 6a; enlavertical gives 30 m for every pitch at V, 6b, 6a+, V, 6a.
- Aspect: south on camptocamp, south-west on enlavertical.
Provenance
Sources
- Camptocamp – Redovan: TriboUsed for: pitch grades and lengths, start, linking pitches, history
- Camptocamp – trip reports (outings 1857732, 698739, 470943)Used for: recent ascent, direct variant, heat, timing
- Enlavertical – vía Tribo (6b), sector La Pancha, RedovánUsed for: equipment, pitch descriptions, descent options, gear
- Diputación de Alicante – Senderos de la Roca, Guía de escalada 2010 (archived PDF)Used for: gear list, access and parking, descent from La Pancha
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.