Multipitch Atlas

Botri

Sierra de Callosa, Redován (Los Cortaos) · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) · Spain

Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high

The classic of Redován: ten pitches and 300 m of steady grade 5 with three steeper pitches on red rock. The eighth pitch, a traverse right into an overhanging corner above the orange cliffs, is the one people remember. Closed from January to June for nesting eagles.

Hardest pitch
6a+
Pitches
10
Length
300 m
Approach
20 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
–

The route

Overview

The longest and best-known bolted route in the Sierra de Callosa, left of the Los Cortaos cliffs above Redován. It climbs almost all the time at grade 5 to 6a on rough, solid limestone, with the hardest move on a short overhang on pitch 4 and the best climbing on the airy pitch 8. Bolting is good and the approach is short. Two things need planning: the wall is closed from 1 January to 30 June, and in the open months it is very hot, so autumn is the season.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P1525 mDiagonally right to a terrace, then left along it, following pegs and bolts. Acclivis gives IV and 30 m.
P26a25 mSteep red rock. Acclivis grades this pitch V.
P3530 mMore or less straight up slabs.
P46a+30 mSteep red rock with less positive holds than pitch 2, including a short overhang. The hardest pitch.
P54+20 mTraverse horizontally right, climb a short corner, then follow the terrace right to the belay on a ledge. An abseil escape leaves from the right of this belay.
P6530 mMostly straight up grey slabs on positive holds.
P75+30 mUp, then a wide loop right to turn an overhang: go well right before coming back left.
P86a45 mThe best pitch: a traverse right, then an overhanging corner, exposed and on perfect rock.
P9530 mA long diagonal right, then straight up.
P10530 mCracks and slabs to the top, with an obvious line. Acclivis gives IV+.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Redován lies just north of Orihuela in the south of Alicante province. Leave the A-7 at exit 737 (Redován), follow the N-340 towards Orihuela for 2.5 km through San Carlos and turn left at the sign for Redován. Drive up through the village to its highest point and park at the sports centre (polideportivo), 38°07'02"N, 0°54'22"W in the provincial guide.

On foot · about 20 min

10 to 20 minutes. From the sports centre take the path up towards the main wall, La Pancha. Just before its foot take a faint path left along the base. It soon fades: keep traversing about 20 m below the cliff, across a scree, to where the wall is lower. The route is a little further on, with its name written at the foot.

Finding the route · 2 photos

  • Walk-inSign at Redován: climbing in the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors is banned from 1 January to 30 June because Bonelli's eagles nest on the wall (photographed January 2023).Photo: grimpzen · CC BY-SA 3.0
  • OverviewDetail of the same sign: the red outline marks the restricted part of the wall that holds the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors.Photo: grimpzen · CC BY-SA 3.0

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

38.12040, -0.90393

Parking

38.11722, -0.90611

Redován sports centre (Senderos de la Roca guide)

Point from camptocamp waypoint 470941

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Walk off; no abseils. Short way: from the top go left along a ridge following cairns to a small col, down-climb about 50 m of easy gully, and pick up the PR path with white paint marks on the right, which leads back to the sports centre in 20 to 25 minutes. Long way: follow the yellow and white waymarks north along the crest to a col with signposts, turn left towards the 'cueva' and left again at the next junction onto a ledge path that crosses the whole cliff; about 1 h 30 min. Two camptocamp parties chose the long way because the gully did not appeal.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

Acclivis describes an escape from the fifth belay: to its right an abseil of 15 m and another of 20 m put you at the foot of the Cortao de las Palas. It adds that higher up descending is complicated. Abseiling the lower pitches themselves is not described.

Retreat from
The belay at the top of pitch 5, by two short abseils to the right.
Point of no return
Leaving the pitch 5 ledge. Above it the stated advice is that retreat is complicated, and pitch 8 traverses.
Carry
One rope is enough for the 15 m and 20 m abseils. Nothing is documented for other belays.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesAcclivis route description (climbed 2006). Not confirmed by a more recent source.

Safety

Hazards

  • Climbing on the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors is banned from 1 January to 30 June to protect nesting Bonelli's eagles (sign at the car park, Decreto 179/2004); the ban carries fines.
  • Above pitch 5 retreat becomes complicated; carry on to the top.
  • The short descent involves down-climbing a gully from the col; if in doubt take the long waymarked path.
  • Heat and sun exposure on a 300 m south face.
  • The approach path fades and crosses scree below the cliff.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-facing at low altitude and extremely hot: every October report complains of the heat. With the January to June closure, the realistic season is October to December. The rock is very abrasive.

Usual season · Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

Climate figures for Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) are not available yet

What to carry

Gear

15 quickdraws (provincial guide and Acclivis). No source states a rope length; the longest pitch is 45 m and the descent is on foot. Helmet, and plenty of water.

Checklist

Quickdraws
15
Rope
Length not given in the sources
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Botri.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Allow 4 to 6 hours for the route. A 2021 party took 7 h 30 min car to car, including a long lunch at the top.
  • The long descent path ends near the car park rather than at the foot of the route, so carry everything with you.
  • The closure notice names only the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors. Tribo and X Capítulos on La Pancha, the main wall, have logged ascents in the closed months and are the alternatives then.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Grade: 6a in the provincial guide, 6a+ on camptocamp and Acclivis.
  • Length: 270 m in the provincial guide, 300 m elsewhere.
  • Pitch grades: camptocamp gives pitch 2 as 6a; Acclivis gives it V and has slightly different lengths (30, 30, 30, 25, 20, 30, 25, 40, 35, 35 m). Camptocamp is used.
  • Descent time: 20 to 25 minutes by the gully (Acclivis) against about 1 h 30 min by the ridge path (camptocamp).

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.