Burgsteiner Wand, Längenfeld · Ötztal · Austria
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Steep, exposed gneiss left of the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata, finding a way between huge roofs. The cruxes are the steep slabs of pitches 5 and 6 (6c). Stiffly graded, and the abseil descent is not for everyone.
The route
Linas Traumreise (listed by Climbers Paradise as "Für Lina – Linas Traumreise") is the left-hand of three routes on the Burgsteiner Wand, the big wall above the road just south of Längenfeld. It picks its way up between the enormous roofs of the central roof zone. The hardest climbing is on the steep slabs in the middle of the route rather than on the roofs. Climbers Paradise grades it 6c with 6a+ obligatory and calls all three routes on the wall demanding, exposed and stiffly graded. The upper pitches lie back and are mossy when damp.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | 30 m | Not described in words by the sources. |
| P2 | 6a | 30 m | Not described individually in open sources. |
| P3 | 4c | 15 m | Short and easy. |
| P4 | 4c | 30 m | Easy. |
| P5 | 6c | 30 m | Steep slab; one of the two crux pitches. |
| P6 | 6c | 20 m | Steep slab again. bergsteigen.com grades the hardest climbing UIAA 7+/8-. |
| P7 | 6a | 20 m | Includes a bolted traverse, shown in the bergsteigen.com photos. |
| P8 | 6b | 20 m | Flatter and mossy when damp. The route ends here; a harder exit to the left, the "Schwaiger-Projekt" (UIAA 7+), continues above. |
Getting there
Leave the Inn valley motorway at the Ötztal exit and drive about 23 km to Längenfeld. From the roundabout at the far end of the village continue about 1 km towards Sölden and, level with the wall, turn right for the hamlet of Astlehn (signed "Reinhard-Schiestl Klettersteig" car park). Use the via ferrata car park 100 m after the turn; do not park along the narrow road to Astlehn. By public transport: train to Ötztal-Bahnhof and bus to Längenfeld.
About 15 min. Cross the main road and, right at the bus stop, cross the stream on a bridge. Go left along the foot of the wall to the via ferrata, pass its start and climb over a gate into a meadow. Straight after the gate go up right on a path through bushes to the wall. The start is about 50 m left of the beginning of the fixed rope that leads to the routes Schwarze Mauer and Schwalbennest, roughly 100 m left of the via ferrata start.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Via ferrata car park at the Astlehn turn-off
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/linas-traumreise-burgsteinwand
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.06030, 10.96607 (route base) · Parking: 47.05800, 10.96292
Getting down
Abseil from the end of the route, following the topo. Climbers Paradise says 2×60 m half ropes are needed. bergsteigen.com warns that the airy abseils are not to everyone's taste. Allow 30 to 45 min.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and the belays have chains, so retreat is built in. The caveats are the terrain and the ropes: the abseils are steep and airy between roofs, and Climbers Paradise says two 60 m ropes are needed.
Safety
Sun and weather
West to north-west facing, 1200 to 1380 m. bergsteigen.com gives April to October, Climbers Paradise May to October. Wait two dry days after rain: the flatter upper pitches are extremely unpleasant when the moss is wet.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Ötztal are not available yet
What to carry
14 quickdraws and a helmet. Ropes: Climbers Paradise says 60 m doubles or a 70 m single for climbing and 2×60 m for the abseils; take the doubles. bergsteigen.com states that nuts are not needed.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Linas Traumreise.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Austria · Ötztal
The best-known long route at Nösslach: steep, well-travelled gneiss slabs low down, a zigzag through the big roof zone in the middle, and more slab to finish. Two pitches of about 6b to 6b+, the rest around 6a.
6b+7 pitches200 m
Austria · Ötztal
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+5 pitches170 m
Around 6c · about 8 pitches
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6c8 pitches250 m
Croatia · Paklenica
Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.
6c8 pitches220 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Eight pitches to the top of Kokkinovrachos, seven of climbing and one of scrambling through vegetation. A crack in a corner, slabs of coral-like rock and two short roofs give varied climbing, with three isolated 6c moves. It stays in the shade through the morning, unlike most of the wall.
6c8 pitches200 m
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6c7 pitches300 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.