Patchwork Family · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The only multipitch on a pillar about 800 m up the road from the gorge exit. Sustained at 6a+/6b on new, very abrasive rock, with a walk between pitches 2 and 3.
Bolted and 6b maximum on paper, but sustained, possibly 6b+, with spaced bolts, no aid option and a poorly documented abseil descent.
The route
The only multipitch at the Patchwork Family sector, a pillar in the small gorges beyond the main gorge. Five long pitches of sustained 6a+/6b wall climbing on new, extremely rough red limestone covered in spikes and mushrooms, with a short walk between pitches 2 and 3. It is a quiet, wild corner opposite caves that nomad families live in. The bolts are sound but become spaced after the start, and one party thought the grades stiff, nearer 6b+. Falls are not advised in places, so climb it with a margin at the grade.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | 40 m | A vertical wall on good edges and flakes, with hidden big pockets low down, then thin moves on small sharp holds. One marked move in the first part. Sustained. Closely bolted at the start. |
| P2 | 6a+ | 35 m | Less intense and more featured. One party thought it nearer 45 m. Ends on a terrace. A walk leads from here to the next step; the paper topo counts this link as a 6a pitch. |
| P3 | 6b | 35 m | Starts by moving left, then a harder passage through a bulge. Steep, sustained and balancy. Exposed to wind. |
| P4 | 6a+ | – | Another long vertical wall on good holds. Length not published. |
| P5 | 6b | – | A change of style: a corner, then a traverse left to a final vertical section. The route does not finish on the summit. Length not published. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Tizgui, the last village about 400 m before the gorge entrance, or in Tinghir about 15 km down the valley. Marrakech is the usual airport; allow about seven hours by road. Buses run to Tinghir from Marrakech, Casablanca and Ouarzazate, and shared taxis or a private taxi cover the last stretch to the gorge. You do not need a car once you are staying near the gorge. Go through the main gorge and continue up the road towards Tamtatouch.
Sources differ on the distance. Camptocamp says to follow the road for about 800 m from the gorge exit until you can pick out the pillar. Mountain Project puts the sector about 2 km north of the main gorge, on the right of the road opposite a large cave used by nomads; cross the river bed and walk up to the cliff. Camptocamp records about 50 m of height gain on the approach. The route starts at the far right of the sector; Mountain Project lists it as the seventh route from the left. No approach time is published.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 779502
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.60272, -5.58764 (crag)
Getting down
By abseil; nothing more is given on the route pages. The one party that describes it (2019) descended to the terrace at the second belay and then made two abseils to the ground. Rope lengths are not published; the first two pitches are 35 to 45 m, so take two ropes. The summit can be reached from the top by an easy gully with no fixed protection (a cedar serves as a belay), but no walk-off from there is described.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
You can retreat by abseil, and at least one party has: they gave up after pitch 3 in a strong west wind, descended to the terrace at the second belay and made two abseils to the ground. The catch is that nothing is published about the anchors or abseil lengths, and the first two pitches are 35 to 45 m, so you need two ropes. Retreat from the two upper pitches is not described by anyone.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
East to south-east facing. The sector is very exposed to west wind: one party abandoned after pitch 3 in a strong westerly. Others had only a light breeze at the top. A fast party took 2 h 30. The rock is new and extremely abrasive, so skin and rope wear are the limit on a long trip.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws (Mountain Project). Two ropes for the abseils (inferred from 40 m and 35 to 45 m pitches; no source states a rope length). Helmet. One party says cams are not useful.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Polo del Sol.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Read the cautions
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.