Morocco
A 300 m deep limestone gorge on the south side of the High Atlas, 15 km above Tinghir, and Morocco's main bolted climbing area. The rock is steep, featured and very abrasive. The local Aventures Verticales team has rebolted most of the classics since 2015, paid for by sales of their topo, which you buy at their shop in the gorge. The gorge floor is at 1,400 m: spring and autumn are best, sunny walls work on still winter days, and shaded walls are climbable into early summer. Fly to Marrakech or Ouarzazate; it is about 6–7 hours by road from Marrakech. Most approaches are minutes from the road.
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Todra Gorge at the Paroi du Levant
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12 routes
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
6a+9 pitches300 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
6a8 pitches320 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Thirteen short pitches, mostly grade 4, with two 5c steps. The longest pitch is 45 m. A big day of easy mileage in the sun above the palm grove.
5c13 pitches340 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The most approachable route on the Scorpion wall. A thin 6a slab move on pitch 3 (A0 possible), then a jug-haul over a roof into a fine slab for the 6b. Some loose blocks at the top of the last pitch.
6b6 pitches150 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Six pitches of technical wall and corner climbing one minute from the gorge-entrance guesthouses. Easy pitches alternate with three hard ones, and the 6b+ fourth pitch and the 6c last pitch are precise, footwork-heavy climbing on very rough rock. The route stops in the middle of the wall and you abseil off.
6c6 pitches160 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Steep, fingery wall climbing that starts with your feet almost in the stream at the gorge entrance. The 7a second pitch is hard for only 2 to 3 metres and can be swapped for a 6b pitch on the neighbouring route, after which three pitches of 6b+ to 6c+ on pocketed and edgy rock lead to the top. Abseil descent.
7a6 pitches200 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Five long pitches of 5c in the centre of the Levant wall, sharing its first pitch with Tromba Bitonale.
5c5 pitches195 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The only multipitch on a pillar about 800 m up the road from the gorge exit. Sustained at 6a+/6b on new, very abrasive rock, with a walk between pitches 2 and 3.
6b5 pitches210 m
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Four pitches of even 5b, five minutes from the road. In the sun all afternoon. A good short first multipitch of a trip.
5b4 pitches125 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A wandering nine-pitch line up the left end of the big wall above Tizgui, mostly 5b to 6a with a superb steep corner on pitch 6. Well bolted but with a mountain feel: it is little travelled, the rock is very abrasive and not fully cleaned, and the belays and the walk-off take some finding.
6c9 pitches250 m
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Morocco