Mur du Scorpion · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: medium
The most approachable route on the Scorpion wall. A thin 6a slab move on pitch 3 (A0 possible), then a jug-haul over a roof into a fine slab for the 6b. Some loose blocks at the top of the last pitch.
Fully bolted with a 6b crux and A0 only on the 6a pitch; bolts are spaced enough to feel committing and the abseils need ropes longer than 50 m.
The route
The most approachable of the multipitch routes on the Mur du Scorpion, a compact wall high on the left above the road beyond the gorge exit. Six pitches of about 150 m: two easy warm-up pitches, a thin 6a slab move, then a jug-pull over a bulge into a fine slab for the 6b crux, and a last technical 6a slab. The climbing is mostly around 5c with a few marked harder moves, and the final three pitches are the best. Belays are solid and linked, but recent parties stress that you have to climb between the bolts.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5a | Easy slab. The paper topo gives 5c, but the camptocamp author thinks 5a is nearer; other parties suggest 5b. Mountain Project gives 5.9. |
| P2 | 5c | A step above the belay, well protected, then a slab. The step can feel abrupt after the easy first pitch. Links with pitch 1 for a 55 m pitch. |
| P3 | 6a | One thin slab move near the start, which can be aided on a bolt (A0). Then a slight leftward traverse and up to the belay. Mountain Project gives 5.10b (about 6a+). |
| P4 | 5b | Follow a crack to the fourth belay. Near the top keep well left so you do not drift onto the bolts of the neighbouring route. Pitches 3 and 4 together are under 50 m. |
| P5 | 6b | The crux. Pass the overhang on its left on a big jug, then mantel onto a thin slab where the hard move is. The second can go further right on the slab to follow a crack with good holds. Physical but on big holds through the bulge. |
| P6 | 6a | Another delicate slab move at the start, climbed on your feet. The upper part is easy but passes some blocks; the route author warns they are unstable, while a 2022 party thought they seemed fairly solid. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Tizgui, the last village about 400 m before the gorge entrance, or in Tinghir about 15 km down the valley. Marrakech is the usual airport; allow about seven hours by road. Buses run to Tinghir from Marrakech, Casablanca and Ouarzazate, and shared taxis or a private taxi cover the last stretch to the gorge. You do not need a car once you are staying near the gorge. Walk or drive through the gorge to its north exit.
About 25 minutes. From the gorge exit walk about 100 m along the road towards Tamtatouch, to where the road crosses a dry river bed. Just after it, head up left by the easiest line, following faint paths and cairns, for 15 minutes to the foot of the cliffs. The slope is less steep than it looks from the road. Then follow the cliff base to the right for about another 10 minutes, past the Azamer sector. The Mur du Scorpion is the wall with very large holes above a first small wall. Mountain Project lists the route as number 2b from the left, under the name Mohamed prisa mata; its first pitch is also listed as a single-pitch route.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 209507
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.59322, -5.59883 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil the route in three abseils, taking the belays two at a time. A 2018 party measured them as 50 m exactly, 45 m and 50 m. A 2016 party found 50 m ropes too short to reach the fourth belay from the top and recommends 55 m. You can break the abseils at the intermediate belays, which are all linked. Mountain Project also mentions a walk-off to the left from the top (looking up at the wall), with no further detail. Return to the road by the approach path.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. Abseiling the route is the normal descent and every belay is solid and linked, so you can retreat from any stance. From the top it is three abseils of 45 to 50 m taking the belays two at a time, or shorter abseils using the intermediate belays.
Safety
Sun and weather
The wall faces east to south-east and has sun from about 9 am to 3 pm. It is high above the road and catches a fresh wind at the top even on warm days. Autumn and spring are the usual seasons; parties have climbed it in February and late December in sunshine. The rock is compact and grippy, less sharp than elsewhere in the gorge. Allow about 3 hours.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws (Mountain Project). Two ropes of at least 55 m, ideally 60 m, for the three long abseils; with 2×50 m use the intermediate belays. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Prisa Mata.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
6a+9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
6a8 pitches320 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 6b · about 6 pitches
Spain · El Chorro
A good continuation above Nitti. Highlights are a short, thin 6b slab on P4 and a pumpy steep start to the final 6a+ pitch.
6b6 pitches138 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.
6b5 pitches216 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Amellago
Seven pitches on very abrasive limestone beside the oued, with swimming holes below. An athletic start to the 6b second pitch; a couple of doubtful flakes on pitches 3 and 4.
6b7 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.