Multipitch Atlas

Les babouches de Mostafa

Paroi des Sources · Taghia · Morocco

CommittingBolting confidence: high

The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.

Topo of Les babouches de Mostafa on the Paroi des Sources, Taghia (photo with line and drawn topo)Photo: Mostof · CC BY-SA 3.0

Topo

Topo of Les babouches de Mostafa on the Paroi des Sources, Taghia (photo with line and drawn topo)Photo: Mostof · CC BY-SA 3.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
7
Length
270 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
W
West-facing
Rope
1×60 m
two 55 m pitches

The route

Overview

Seven pitches up the Paroi des Sources, starting at the water's edge by the Taghia springs, bolted in 2023 as a gentle introduction to Taghia. The climbing is varied: slabs and a traverse low down, a long sustained vertical wall on small holds for the crux fourth pitch, and long slabby walls above. Sources agree it is well bolted by Taghia standards and a good first route of a trip. One 2026 blogger found it less continuous and lower in quality than Taghia's bigger classics, with a scrappy second pitch.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a+35 mSlab on a vague rib, a traverse right round a small roof, then up to the belay. Gulliver and a 2026 Spanish blog both give 6a.
P25b35 mLink pitch over grassy ledges, the least attractive of the route. Stay roughly in line with the belay and ignore a bolt out left. Near the top there is unstable rock below the second belay: pass it on the left. Gulliver gives 5a.
P36a+30 mLeave the belay leftwards with a traverse, then a rib and an athletic slab, easing to the belay. A 2024 party warns the left traverse is not far above a ledge.
P46b55 mThe crux and one of the best pitches: a long, continuous vertical wall of compact limestone on small holds, closely bolted. Gulliver gives 50 m; the Spanish blog thought 6a+.
P55+55 mEasier-angled climbing on water-pocked rock with a little vegetation. Other sources give 5b or 5c.
P66a50 mLong, varied and sustained wall or slab with just enough holds; one blogger's favourite pitch. Gulliver gives 6a+ and 55 m.
P76a40 mA rib a few metres above the belay, then diagonally right onto a slab. Ignore a bolt out left. Good rock. Gulliver gives 5c+ and the Spanish blog thought about 5b.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Taghia is a roadless Berber village in Azilal province, central High Atlas. From Marrakech it is about 5 hours by taxi to Zaouiat Ahansal (the gîtes arrange this). From there it has traditionally been about an hour's walk with mules for the bags. A 2024 party reported a newly built track with jeep transfers, but it was blocked by a landslide and they walked in about three hours in rain, so check the current state with your gîte. Several gîtes in the village offer half board.

On foot · about 15 min

Under 15 min from the village. Follow the river on its right bank towards the springs. The route starts at the water's edge from the slab left of the entrance to the springs, immediately left of the route 'Belle et Berbère'. Sources differ on whether you cross the river at the end; either way the foot of the route is by the water.

Map of the walk-in

  • Area: approximate

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The point is approximate: it marks the area, not the crag.

Coordinates · area: approximate

31.78437, -6.06462

Point from camptocamp waypoint 43748

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Walk off; do not abseil. From belay 7 follow the ledge left (one bolt), then climb a short gully (grade III, about 20 m; belay on a spike or tree) to a big terrace near the top of 'Le Rêve d'Aïcha'. Pick up the cairns on the summit ledges and follow them left: a wide ledge, a gully down, then a small path back to the village. An account of the neighbouring Rêve d'Aïcha walk-off gives about an hour. Gulliver adds that abseiling is only possible as far down as the second belay because the belays above are not linked.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Committing

Only low down. Gulliver states that abseiling is possible no higher than the second belay, because the belays above are not linked. The openers also tell you not to abseil at all: the route stands directly over the springs path and anything you dislodge lands where people walk. Above belay 2 the practical way off is to finish and walk down.

Retreat from
Belays 1 and 2, about 35 m and 70 m up, are the only ones reported as usable for abseil. No escape ledge or walk-off part-way is described; pitch 2 crosses grassy ledges but nobody reports leaving the wall by them.
Point of no return
Belay 2. Above it the belays are unlinked bolts (Gulliver), pitch 3 starts with a leftward traverse, and pitches 4 and 5 are about 55 m each, more than a single 60 m rope can abseil (the last point is inferred from the lengths).
Carry
The recommended single 60 m rope will not get you down the upper pitches. A forced retreat from above belay 2 would need two 60 m ropes plus cord and maillons to link and leave on the belay bolts. Slings to link the upper belays are needed for climbing anyway.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredGulliver states abseiling is only possible as far as belay 2 because the higher belays are unlinked, and camptocamp says not to abseil because of stonefall onto the springs path; the rope arithmetic for the 55 m pitches is inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Do not abseil the route and do not knock anything off: it rises directly above the Taghia springs and the path to them, which is busy with locals and tourists.
  • Unstable rock below the second belay must be passed on the left. Fragile blocks on the route are marked in red. A 2024 party confirmed there were still blocks to watch on this recent route.
  • The leftward traverse on pitch 3 is close above a ledge; a fall there could hit it (2024 trip report).
  • Belays above the second are not linked for abseiling (Gulliver), so retreat from high on the route is awkward.
  • Taghia is remote. One guide notes a helicopter can take about two days to arrive.

Sun and weather

Conditions

West to north-west facing, base at about 1900 m. In shade until about midday in summer. Taghia's season is roughly March to June and September to November.

Usual season · Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct

Sun on the wall · W-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.

Climate figures for Taghia are not available yet

What to carry

Gear

60 m rope recommended (two 55 m pitches). Camptocamp says 18 quickdraws including belays; Gulliver and the Spanish blog say 16. About 90 bolts in total. Cams are not needed. Slings to link the upper belays. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
18
Rope
1×60 m (two 55 m pitches)
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Slings
Mentioned for retreat
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Les babouches de Mostafa.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Recommended by several sources as the first route of a Taghia trip.
  • The summit ledges can also be left by the descent used for 'Le Rêve d'Aïcha', which tops out close by.
  • A topo image is posted on Christian Ravier's website in his list of routes opened since his guidebook.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch grades differ. Camptocamp: 6a+, 5b, 6a+, 6b, 5+, 6a, 6a. Gulliver: 6a, 5a, 6a+, 6b, 5c, 6a+, 5c+. A 2026 Spanish blog: 6a, 5b, 6a, 6a+, 5b, 6a, about 5b, and two Spanish sources headline the route as 6a+. The camptocamp grades (from the openers) are kept, with 6b as the maximum.
  • Pitch lengths: camptocamp 35, 35, 30, 55, 55, 50, 40 m; Gulliver 35, 35, 30, 50, 55, 55, 45 m plus a 20 m exit. Both add up to more than the 270 m usually quoted.
  • Quickdraws: 18 including belays (camptocamp) against 16 (Gulliver, Spanish blog).
  • Aspect: W on camptocamp, NW on Gulliver.
  • Approach: one 2026 report says you do not cross the river; Gulliver says you cross and keep to the right bank.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.