Paroi du Levant · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Five long pitches of 5c in the centre of the Levant wall, sharing its first pitch with Tromba Bitonale.
Fully bolted only to the fifth belay, with spaced bolts in places (camptocamp E3) and abseils that need two 50 m ropes.
The route
Five bolted pitches up the centre of the Paroi du Levant, the big wall above Tizgui village just outside the gorge. The line follows a prominent corner system behind a pinnacle, with sustained 5c crack, corner and wall climbing in a mountain style. The bolts stop at the fifth belay. From there you either abseil, or scramble two unbolted pitches of about grade II/III to the plateau and walk down. It is the easiest long route on this wall, but the bolts are spaced in places and camptocamp rates the fall consequences as serious (E3).
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 40 m | Shared with Tromba bitonale. A long, even pitch through the single-pitch routes at the base. The belay is to the left of where the pitch exits. |
| P2 | 5a | 35 m | A linking pitch into the characteristic corner behind the pinnacle. Sources disagree about how you leave the first belay (see discrepancies), so follow the bolts. Mountain Project grades it 5.9-. |
| P3 | 5c | 40 m | Long corner and wall climbing. A 2024 party found pitches 3 and 4 more involved than the topo suggests. |
| P4 | 5c | 50 m | The longest pitch, 50 m of corner and wall. Mountain Project gives 5.9+. |
| P5 | 5c | 30 m | A short red wall on very rough rock, described as the best pitch. Mountain Project gives 5.10a (about 6a). The bolts end at this belay. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Tizgui, the last village about 400 m before the gorge entrance, or in Tinghir about 15 km down the valley. Marrakech is the usual airport; allow about seven hours by road. Buses run to Tinghir from Marrakech, Casablanca and Ouarzazate, and shared taxis or a private taxi cover the last stretch to the gorge. You do not need a car once you are staying near the gorge. The wall is directly above Tizgui, so you can walk from accommodation in the village.
About 20 to 30 minutes. From the old village of Tizgui take the path that starts above the Berber museum and passes under the red and white pylon for 10 to 15 minutes, then follow the best of the small paths up to the wall for a similar time. Alternatively follow the foot of the cliff from the Plage Mansour sector at the gorge entrance, 20 to 30 minutes. The wall is unmistakable: there is a large Arabic inscription in white-painted stones at its base. The route is in the centre of the wall, the ninth route from the left according to Mountain Project, and starts among the single-pitch routes. The first pitch is shared with Tromba bitonale.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from Mountain Project area 111993178 (Paroi du Levant)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.57987, -5.59387 (crag)
Getting down
Option 1, abseil: from the fifth belay abseil the route. Belays are linked and have quick-links. A 2023 party abseiled along the bolts of the last pitch and then straight down, making the last abseil off one of the single-pitch routes at the base. A 2021 party says two 50 m ropes are the minimum and that they needed more abseils than planned. Option 2, on foot: climb two more unbolted pitches of about II/III (the Spanish camptocamp text grades them 4c; 30 m and 35 m), an easy gully with one tree for a runner, to the plateau. From the top of the plateau either head north-west to the highest point, cross several steep gullies to the col with a track west of the summit and follow the path down towards the red and white pylon (about 1 h 30); or from the high point bear north-east, pass two gullies and take the third after a short descent (a few cairns). This gully faces south and has large whitened boulders in its bed. About halfway down it drops into steep slabs: do not follow the glue-in bolts there, but climb slightly to a small cairned notch and pick up an easy path down to the Mansour sector (45 minutes to 1 hour).
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. Abseiling the route from the fifth belay is one of the two normal descents, and the belays are linked and fitted with quick-links, so you can turn back from any of them. Two 50 m ropes are the stated minimum, and one party needed more abseils than planned.
Safety
Sun and weather
The wall faces east to south-east and gets morning sun until about 2 pm, but the route sits in a corner and parties in October and March found useful shade (one reports shade from 1 pm). Camptocamp lists February to June as the best period for the wall. Climbing time is about 1 h 40 to 2 hours for a quick pair. The rock is very abrasive.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws (Mountain Project). Two 50 m ropes for the abseils. Helmet. One 2024 party carried a few cams for reassurance but placed almost none.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to The first of Ela.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 5c · about 5 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
This was the second route on Montagna Spaccata and is the cliff's classic moderate. It's never hard but never trivial, with continuous exposure above the sea: a horizontal crack traverse, an athletic juggy chimney and corners. Gulliver gives UIAA grades V–V+ / IV+–V / V+ / V / V–IV+ (5c max), converted here.
5c5 pitches125 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.
5c5 pitches145 m
Spain · Montserrat
A straightforward line up the 'Phrygian cap' visible from the monastery. Only the short vertical step on pitch 3 is sustained. It is a good route for learning Montserrat pebble technique and has a summit cross with a big view. The approach takes about 10 min from the Sant Joan funicular top.
5c5 pitches140 m
Morocco · Taghia
The easiest bolted line at Taghia: three steep 5c walls linked by two long, easy garden pitches. Goes into shade around midday in April.
5c5 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.