Via dello Spigolo

No. You reach the start by abseiling to a terrace at sea level, and the only normal way out is to climb a route. Abseiling back down from any belay just returns you to that terrace. One description says the alternatives are swimming or calling a boat.

• Committing: once you have abseiled to the sea-level terrace the only normal way out is to climb a route. One description notes that otherwise your options are swimming or calling a boat.
• When you pull the abseil ropes they can drop into the sea; manage them carefully.
• Before the 2025 re-bolting a climber broke the third glue-in on pitch 1 simply by weighting it, and the re-bolting team reported that about one old anchor in ten came out with a single hammer blow. Via dello Spigolo, Croce del Sud and Via Beatrice have been re-bolted; the team says many other routes on the wall are still in very poor condition, so do not stray onto neighbouring lines.
• Bolting is described as fairly spaced (S2). A December 2025 report says the crux of the penultimate pitch is poorly protected, with an old rusty peg as the only extra runner.
• The wedged block at the start of pitch 5 moves. Climb past it without pulling outwards and keep your belayer out of the line.
• Pitch 1 is polished and often greasy.
• Access rules are unclear. A 2014 trip report on the neighbouring Croce del Sud says older write-ups mentioned a climbing ban from February to August and a municipal order against stopping in the Montagna Spaccata area because of rockfall risk, but the author saw no prohibition signs. The cliff is inside a regional park; CAI Roma handles relations with the park and the town. Check locally before going.

Two 60 m half ropes for the two-abseil approach, or a single rope of at least 70 m using the intermediate abseil stations. 12 quickdraws, some of them long for pitch 2. Slings or cord and karabiners to link the belay points (some belays are 3 to 5 separate glue-ins and bolts). Helmet.

• On pitch 1 make sure you leave Croce del Sud (6a to 6b, straight up the arête) after the third glue-in and go right along the crack. A 2015 party climbed Croce del Sud by mistake.
• If Croce del Sud is busy this route is the natural alternative from the same starting ledge.
• Start early in warm weather.
• Take enough slings to equalise multi-point belays.

• Pitch grades differ between sources. Gulliver (UIAA): V–V+, IV+/V, V+, V, V/IV+. verticalRock blog (2013): 5c, 4c, 5a, 5a, 5b. Voci al Vento: 5, 4+, 5, 4+, 4+. All agree the maximum is about 5c; recent Gulliver reports put the hardest climbing on pitch 1. Grades here follow Gulliver's UIAA grades converted, with the alternatives noted per pitch.
• Pitch lengths come only from the 2013 verticalRock blog (20, 40, 25, 25, 15 m = 125 m, matching Gulliver's total).
• Abseil approach: Gulliver says two long abseils; a 2011 report gives the second as 60 m, a 2023 report says both are about 50 m, a 2015 report says a single 70 m rope is enough using intermediate stations, and an older page describes three abseils of about 35 m. 2×50 m looks too short for the two-abseil option, so 2×60 m is recommended here.
• Bolting quality: 2011 to 2023 reports call the protection good; the December 2025 report (after re-bolting) calls it fairly spaced with one poorly protected move. The later report is followed.
• The PlanetMountain route page could not be read in full; its S2 rating and first-ascent details are quoted from search summaries only.