Italy
Limestone sea cliffs on the Lazio coast halfway between Rome and Naples. Montagna Spaccata's routes start from ledges just above the waves and are reached by abseil from the sanctuary path. It's a classic autumn-to-spring destination with mild winters, and Gaeta is the base town.
Where and when
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Montagna Spaccata, Gaeta · 48 m
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 12 | 12 | 14 | 17 | 21 | 25 | 28 | 28 | 24 | 21 | 16 | 13 |
| Mean daily low °C | 6 | 5 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 18 | 20 | 21 | 18 | 14 | 11 | 7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 10 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 9 | 11 | 14 | 12 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 48 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
2 routes
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
This was the second route on Montagna Spaccata and is the cliff's classic moderate. It's never hard but never trivial, with continuous exposure above the sea: a horizontal crack traverse, an athletic juggy chimney and corners. Gulliver gives UIAA grades V–V+ / IV+–V / V+ / V / V–IV+ (5c max), converted here.
5c5 pitches125 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
The showpiece of the Montagna Spaccata: four steep, exposed pitches up a knife-edge spur that drops straight into the sea, reached by abseil. Sustained around 6a+ on good holds, with an overhang at 6b to finish.
6b4 pitches120 m
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Italy