Multipitch Atlas

Valle dell'Orco

Italy

The Orco valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park, west of Turin, is famous above all for traditional granite crack climbing at the Sergent and Caporal. A few slab routes are fully bolted, though, and they suit plaisir climbers. Late spring to autumn; base in Ceresole Reale or Noasca.

Route
1
Grade span
6a+
Longest route: Via per Giorgio
350 m

Where and when

Location and climate

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Sergent, Valle dell'Orco · 1,799 m

Monthly climate averages for Valle dell'Orco, 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMarApr (usual season)May (usual season)Jun (usual season)JulAugSep (usual season)Oct (usual season)NovDec
Mean daily high °C−2−125101517171382−1
Mean daily low °C−9−9−6−2279961−5−9
Rain days 1 mm or more111011141719181715131311

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1799 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

1 route

Routes in Valle dell'Orco

The Sergent seen from the campsite, with sector names and a few lines marked (left-hand sector at left)

Italy · Valle dell'Orco

Via per Giorgio

A rare fully bolted slab line on the Sergent, the home of Orco trad. It's mostly easy-angled granite slabs with a vertical corner on P3 and an overhanging start to the final 6a+ pitch (5c obligatory, A0 possible).

6a+12 pitches350 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

Italian

corda
rope
rinvio
quickdraw
spit, fix
bolt
sosta
belay, anchor
tiro
pitch
Blocca!
Take!
Corda!
Slack!
Recupera!
Take in!

Italy

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