Jardin d'été · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Four pitches of even 5b, five minutes from the road. In the sun all afternoon. A good short first multipitch of a trip.
The route
Four pitches of even 5b on the Jardin d'été wall, the sunny cliff above the gardens at the north exit of the gorge. The climbing is on big pockets and jugs, steeper than the grade suggests, with a short overhanging section on pitch 2. There is no single crux, but you have to climb every pitch at the grade. Several parties call it the best route of its level in the gorge, and it makes a good short first multipitch for a trip.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5b | 35 m | Vertical wall and slab on pockets. |
| P2 | 5b | 25 m | The most athletic pitch: a short overhanging section on big holds. |
| P3 | 5b | 30 m | – |
| P4 | 5b | 35 m | – |
Getting there
Base yourself in Tizgui, the last village about 400 m before the gorge entrance, or in Tinghir about 15 km down the valley. Marrakech is the usual airport; allow about seven hours by road. Buses run to Tinghir from Marrakech, Casablanca and Ouarzazate, and shared taxis or a private taxi cover the last stretch to the gorge. You do not need a car once you are staying near the gorge. Go through the gorge to its north exit; the wall is on the right as you come out, above the first gardens.
About 5 minutes from the road. At the gorge exit, just after the via ferrata and opposite the craft stalls, follow the path up along the river. Cross it at the obvious point below the first gardens and walk between the gardens to the rock, taking care not to damage them. Tik Sab is on the right, beyond the single-pitch routes, and starts a little higher than they do. It is the fifth multipitch to the right of the single-pitch area according to Mountain Project, immediately left of Qui l'eut cru, and starts at the left-most edge of a mound and goes straight up.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 244318
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.58972, -5.59518 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil the route. Four abseils, belay to belay, is the safe choice. Three abseils is possible, and Mountain Project says you go slightly left to find the anchors for that, but camptocamp warns the rope is very likely to jam, and one party did get a rope stuck. Walk back the way you came.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. The normal descent is to abseil the route belay to belay, so you can turn round at any of the four belays and go down the same way. Keep the abseils short, one per pitch: camptocamp warns that running them together is very likely to jam the rope, and one party did get a rope stuck.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-west facing. In the sun through the afternoon until very late, which makes it a good cool-season or late-day route and a hot one in warm weather. Mountain Project notes the wall gets more sun than any other in the gorge and draws groups of beginners, mostly on the single pitches. A quick pair took about 1 h 45 including the abseils.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws (Mountain Project). No source states a rope length; pitches are up to 35 m (camptocamp marks the lengths as approximate), so you need two ropes or a single long enough for 35 m abseils. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Tik Sab.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
6a+9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
6a8 pitches320 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 5b · about 4 pitches
Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)
The easiest bolted line on the face, up flakes, cracks and water grooves in a wild karst setting. It dries fastest after rain. Pitch grades are from the Čujić topo; camptocamp's ascensionists felt 5b/5c/5b/5b.
5b4 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Montserrat
A popular first Montserrat multipitch close to the monastery. Steep pebble walls at 5b are split by easy slabs, finishing on an airy summit cap.
5b6 pitches145 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
An easy, relaxing sport route on low-angle Zebrate slabs, trending left to right to join Cane Trippa at the fifth belay. It's an excellent first multipitch. Gulliver gives UIAA III / II–III / IV / IV–IV+ for the first four pitches, converted here.
5b6 pitches240 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.
5c4 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.