Multipitch Atlas

Črni panter

Nad Šitom glava – SE face · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps) · Slovenia

Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: high

Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič PassPhoto: Krzysztof Golik · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič PassPhoto: Krzysztof Golik · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6b+
Pitches
4
Length
105 m
Approach
30 min
Aspect
SE
South-east-facing
Rope
1×60 m
Read before you go

Fully bolted and safe by all accounts, but the crux is 6b+/6c free rather than 6b; the first ascensionist confirms it goes at 6a A0.

The route

Overview

A short, steep four-pitch sport route up the obvious black streak on the south-east face of Nad Šitom glava, visible from the Vršič pass. The climbing is sustained slab and corner work on compact rock, and it is the hardest of the modern bolted lines on this part of the wall. The first ascensionist gave the crux pitch 6b, but every repeat report found says it is harder, nearer 6b+ or 6c. The crux and the hard start of pitch 3 can both be pulled through on the bolts, with 6a obligatory. Bolting is complete and repeaters call it safe, so the seriousness comes from the grade rather than the gear.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthBoltsNotes
P16a28 m7 boltsStart up a crack through slabs to a small ledge. Move right onto the slabs, then straight up to the belay.
P26b+25 m9 boltsRight from the belay and straight up the slabs, then traverse left to the edge of the black streak and follow a small corner to the belay. The step from the slab into the corner is the crux of the route. Graded 6b by the first ascensionist and 6b+ to 6c by repeaters; it can be aided on the bolts (A0).
P36a+25 m7 boltsFollow a crack left, then go right to below a smooth corner. Getting into the corner is hard and can be aided (A0). Higher up the corner opens out and the rock improves. Good stance below the exit pitch.
P45b27 m5 boltsClimb a wide chimney until you can reach the slabs on the left. Cross them leftwards to the arete and follow it to the top of the route on the rim of the wall, where there is a comfortable bolted belay and abseil station.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

The face stands directly above the Vršič pass road in the Julian Alps; Kranjska Gora is the nearest town. Park at the pass. Sources describe the scree as running straight from the Vršič car park to the foot of the wall. None of the sources read gives bus or parking-fee details.

On foot · about 30 min

From the Vršič pass go up the scree towards the south-east face, then follow the foot of the wall rightwards. Neighbouring routes in this sector are given 25–30 min from the pass. The start is about 50 m right of the route Stoletje, just right of a small cave, where you can see the first bolt. Mavrica življenja starts about 20 m to the left and Rdeča pentlja about 15 m to the left. No source mentions a name painted at the base.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

46.43890, 13.73931

Point from plezanje.net crag "Nad Šitom glava, jugovzhodna stena"

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Abseil the line of the route. The abseils are equipped along the route and are about 25 m each, so a single 60 m rope is enough. The top station is at the comfortable belay on the rim of the wall.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

Yes. The route is abseiled as its normal descent, with bolted abseil anchors along the line and abseils of about 25 m. A single 60 m rope gets you down from any belay.

Retreat from
Any of the four belays; pitches are 25 to 28 m.
Carry
1×60 m rope. Nothing to leave behind.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredThe first ascensionist's report states the equipped abseils of about 25 m and the single 60 m rope; that every intermediate belay serves for retreat is inferred from that.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • The crux pitch is undergraded at 6b. Tomo Česen (2020) called it substantially harder than 6b, Peter Ramuš (2020) put it nearer 6c, and plezanje.net votes are one 6b and two 6c. Expect 6b+/6c free, or 6a with A0.
  • 6a is obligatory even if you aid the two hard sections.
  • The first ascensionist asked for caution because the route was new in 2020 and not yet cleaned by traffic. plezanje.net shows only a handful of logged ascents since.
  • Several bolted lines now run close together on this face. Check the topo photo so you start up the right one.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-east facing, with route altitudes on plezanje.net between about 1,850 and 2,000 m. One area guide notes the face goes into shade after about 14:00, so summer afternoons are cool and spring or autumn give more sun. plezanje.net ascent logs for the face cluster in June to September, with a few in May and October. Drying times are not documented.

Usual season · Jun to Oct

Sun on the wall · SE-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C−5−4−0491315151161−4
Mean daily low °C−11−11−8−404663−1−5−10
Rain days 1 mm or more891115181818171311129
Sunshine hours a day5.96.98.39.710.711.812.211.18.96.75.05.2

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2035 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

Single 60 m rope, 10 quickdraws. The first ascensionist states that no extra protection is needed. Wear a helmet: he also advised caution because the route was new.

Checklist

Quickdraws
10
Rope
1×60 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Črni panter.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Chalked holds stand out on the dark rock and make route reading easier, according to an early repeat.
  • Mavrica življenja and Rdeča pentlja start 15–20 m to the left and are a grade easier, so the three combine well in a day.
  • plezanje.net gives about 2 h for the climb.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Crux grade: first ascensionist 6b; Česen says much harder; Ramuš says nearer 6c; plezanje.net consensus sits at 6b+. This entry follows the repeaters and lists 6b+.
  • Length: the first ascensionist's report says 105 m (pitches of 28, 25, 25 and 27 m); the plezanje.net record field says 110 m. This entry uses 105 m.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

All routes in Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Mandolinca

A compact modern sport multipitch by Tomo and Dragica Česen, front-loaded with its longest and hardest pitch. It is close to the road and good for a half-day.

6b4 pitches90 m

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Mavrica življenja

A memorial route (to Nejc Sedej) of slabs, a little pillar and a final corner-to-pillar pitch that is the crux. 6a is obligatory.

6b4 pitches115 m

Read the cautions

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Rdeča pentlja

Beautiful plates and mini dolomite-style runnels, then a final corner. It makes a neat companion to its neighbours on the same face.

6a+4 pitches110 m

Around 6b+ · about 4 pitches

Similar elsewhere

The Roca dels Arcs (right) and Roca Alta (left) above Vilanova de Meià

Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)

El Somni de Quimfer

Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.

6b+4 pitches160 m

No photo yet

Austria · Ötztal

Caipirinha

A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.

6b+5 pitches170 m

The Biddiriscottai sea cliff north of Cala Gonone, seen from the approach path to Oceano Mare

Italy · Sardinia

Oceano Mare

Five steep, sustained pitches at 6b to 6b+ straight out of the sea on new titanium bolts, on abrasive, pocketed limestone. Bulges, a smooth roof, a corner and a thin finishing crack, with a cave belay after pitch 1.

6b+5 pitches160 m

No photo yet

Austria · Zillertal

Schwarzer Teufel

A slab route on the left side of the Wiegelwand with steep passages on small edges; UIAA 7/7+ at the crux on pitch 3, 6 to 6+ obligatory. The easier pitches are a bit grassy. Often wet, so look from below first.

6b+5 pitches110 m

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.