Multipitch Atlas

Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Slovenia

The SE face of Nad Šitom glava rises right above the 1,611 m Vršič road pass, between Kranjska Gora and Trenta. Since 2020 it has gained several short, fully bolted modern 4-pitch lines on good alpine limestone. These sit beside older trad routes. The season runs June–October, once the pass road is open.

Routes
4
Grade span
6a+to6b+
Longest route: Mavrica življenja
115 m

Where and when

Location and climate

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Nad Šitom glava, above the Vršič Pass road · 2,035 m

Monthly climate averages for Vršič Pass (Julian Alps), 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMarAprMayJun (usual season)Jul (usual season)Aug (usual season)Sep (usual season)Oct (usual season)NovDec
Mean daily high °C−5−4−0491315151161−4
Mean daily low °C−11−11−8−404663−1−5−10
Rain days 1 mm or more891115181818171311129
Sunshine hours a day5.96.98.39.710.711.812.211.18.96.75.05.2

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2035 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

4 routes

Routes in Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Črni panter

Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.

6b+4 pitches105 m

Read the cautions

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Mandolinca

A compact modern sport multipitch by Tomo and Dragica Česen, front-loaded with its longest and hardest pitch. It is close to the road and good for a half-day.

6b4 pitches90 m

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Mavrica življenja

A memorial route (to Nejc Sedej) of slabs, a little pillar and a final corner-to-pillar pitch that is the crux. 6a is obligatory.

6b4 pitches115 m

Read the cautions

Mala Mojstrovka (left) and Nad Šitom glava (right) seen from the Vršič Pass

Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Rdeča pentlja

Beautiful plates and mini dolomite-style runnels, then a final corner. It makes a neat companion to its neighbours on the same face.

6a+4 pitches110 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

Slovenian

vrv
rope
komplet
quickdraw
svedrovec
bolt
varovališče, štant
belay, anchor
raztežaj
pitch
Zapri!
Take!
Popusti!
Slack!
Kamen!
Rock!

Slovenia

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