Nad Šitom glava – SE face · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps) · Slovenia
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A compact modern sport multipitch by Tomo and Dragica Česen, front-loaded with its longest and hardest pitch. It is close to the road and good for a half-day.
The route
A compact four-pitch bolted route by Tomo and Dragica Česen on the left part of the wall, close to their route Violinca. The first pitch is both the longest and the hardest, so the difficulty is front-loaded and the rest eases to 5c and 6a. It is very close to the road and plezanje.net gives about 1.5 h of climbing, which makes it a half-day outing. The upper pitches carry only three to five bolts each, so it feels more alpine-sport than crag.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+/6b | 30 m | 11 bolts | The longest and hardest pitch. The first ascensionists proposed 6a+/6b; all three plezanje.net votes are 6b. Takes 11 quickdraws. |
| P2 | 5c | 20 m | 5 bolts | Shorter and easier. A slab lies directly below the second belay. |
| P3 | 6a | 20 m | 4 bolts | – |
| P4 | 6a | – | 3 bolts | Slightly shorter than pitches 2 and 3; exact length not published. |
Getting there
The face stands directly above the Vršič pass road in the Julian Alps; Kranjska Gora is the nearest town. Park at the pass. Sources describe the scree as running straight from the Vršič car park to the foot of the wall. None of the sources read gives bus or parking-fee details.
From the Vršič pass car park walk up the easy scree that leads straight to the foot of the wall. The crag record gives 30 min. On the first ascensionists' topo photo the route starts at the same point as Vidova smer, right of Violinca and Steber ob Kamenkovem kaminu, and crosses Vidova low on the first pitch before running parallel to it on its right. No source mentions a painted name.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from plezanje.net crag "Nad Šitom glava, jugovzhodna stena"
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.43890, 13.73931 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil the route. The first ascensionists specify a single 60 m rope, abseiling from belay to belay. If you use double ropes and go from the fourth belay straight to the second, the plezanje.net note says you have to climb part of the slab below the second belay to reach it.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. The first ascensionists describe abseiling the route from belay to belay on a single 60 m rope, so you can turn round at any belay. Do not try to skip stations on double ropes: a long abseil from R4 does not land at R2, and you have to climb part of the slab below it.
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing, with route altitudes on plezanje.net between about 1,850 and 2,000 m. One area guide notes the face goes into shade after about 14:00, so summer afternoons are cool and spring or autumn give more sun. plezanje.net ascent logs for the face cluster in June to September, with a few in May and October. Drying times are not documented.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −5 | −4 | −0 | 4 | 9 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 6 | 1 | −4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −11 | −11 | −8 | −4 | 0 | 4 | 6 | 6 | 3 | −1 | −5 | −10 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 9 | 11 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 13 | 11 | 12 | 9 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2035 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Single 60 m rope and 11 quickdraws. The plezanje.net record lists 0 pitons, 0 cams and 0 nuts. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Mandolinca.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
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Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
A memorial route (to Nejc Sedej) of slabs, a little pillar and a final corner-to-pillar pitch that is the crux. 6a is obligatory.
6b4 pitches115 m
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Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
Beautiful plates and mini dolomite-style runnels, then a final corner. It makes a neat companion to its neighbours on the same face.
6a+4 pitches110 m
Around 6b · about 4 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
The showpiece of the Montagna Spaccata: four steep, exposed pitches up a knife-edge spur that drops straight into the sea, reached by abseil. Sustained around 6a+ on good holds, with an overhang at 6b to finish.
6b4 pitches120 m
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Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A short gem with slabs, crimps, water-drop pockets, a bulge and a traverse on superb rock, with the usual big Kalymnos view. It is the most popular guided 6a multi-pitch on the island.
6b4 pitches120 m
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Morocco · Amellago
The most accessible multipitch at Amellago: four short pitches broken by a walk along a ledge under the roofs, finishing with an exposed traverse on rough brown rock. Some doubtful rock at the start of pitch 3. In shade from mid-afternoon in winter.
6b4 pitches80 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Four 35 m pitches starting 3 m left of the Espolón del Adamelo and finishing at the same belay. Harder and more sustained than its neighbour.
6b4 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
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