Nad Šitom glava – SE face · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps) · Slovenia
Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: high
A memorial route (to Nejc Sedej) of slabs, a little pillar and a final corner-to-pillar pitch that is the crux. 6a is obligatory.
Fully bolted, but the single-rope abseil misses its station by about 3 m and the middle pitches are sparsely bolted at an obligatory 6a.
The route
A four-pitch bolted route, dedicated to the memory of Nejc Sedej of AO Jesenice, about 20 m left of Črni panter. It climbs good slabs, a small pillar and more slabs before a long final pitch up a corner and pillar that is the crux at 6a+/6b. The two middle pitches have only three and four bolts, and 6a is obligatory, so it is a step more committing than its bolt count on pitches 1 and 4 suggests. The abseil line needs care.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 35 m | 8 bolts | Slab climbing on good rock to a belay shared with Rdeča pentlja. |
| P2 | 6a | 20 m | 3 bolts | Over a small pillar, then right to the belay. Only three bolts. |
| P3 | 5c | 25 m | 4 bolts | Slabs. Four bolts and one thread. An old piton with a karabiner sits in the corner above the third belay; the first ascensionists ask that it be left in place. |
| P4 | 6a+/6b | 35 m | 13 bolts | The crux pitch. From the slabs move right into a corner, climb it straight up, then go right onto a pillar and follow it to the top. |
Getting there
The face stands directly above the Vršič pass road in the Julian Alps; Kranjska Gora is the nearest town. Park at the pass. Sources describe the scree as running straight from the Vršič car park to the foot of the wall. None of the sources read gives bus or parking-fee details.
From the Vršič pass go straight up to the foot of the south-east face, then right along the wall past the start of Stoletje (25–30 min for that route). Mavrica življenja starts right of Juševa smer and about 20 m left of Črni panter. Rdeča pentlja starts about 5 m to its right. A 2024 plezanje.net comment warns that the bolts of Mavrica življenja can be mistaken for Juševa smer, which stays to the left.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from plezanje.net crag "Nad Šitom glava, jugovzhodna stena"
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.43890, 13.73931 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil. There are 30 m abseil stations in the route, usable with a single 60 m rope. On the first abseil from the top the rope runs about 3 m to the right of the next station and past it, so you have to pendulum or pull yourself across. For that reason the first ascensionist recommends descending on double ropes in two abseils instead.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. The route has bolted abseil stations at 30 m intervals and abseiling is the normal descent. The one catch is the first abseil from the top on a single rope, which runs about 3 m right of and past the next station, so you must swing across. The first ascensionist recommends double ropes for that reason.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing, with route altitudes on plezanje.net between about 1,850 and 2,000 m. One area guide notes the face goes into shade after about 14:00, so summer afternoons are cool and spring or autumn give more sun. plezanje.net ascent logs for the face cluster in June to September, with a few in May and October. Drying times are not documented.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −5 | −4 | −0 | 4 | 9 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 6 | 1 | −4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −11 | −11 | −8 | −4 | 0 | 4 | 6 | 6 | 3 | −1 | −5 | −10 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 9 | 11 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 13 | 11 | 12 | 9 |
| Sunshine hours a day | 5.9 | 6.9 | 8.3 | 9.7 | 10.7 | 11.8 | 12.2 | 11.1 | 8.9 | 6.7 | 5.0 | 5.2 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2035 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
13 quickdraws. Two 60 m ropes are recommended for the descent; a single 60 m rope works with care. Helmet. A few pitons used during equipping were left in place.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Mavrica življenja.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
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