Nad Šitom glava – SE face · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps) · Slovenia
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Beautiful plates and mini dolomite-style runnels, then a final corner. It makes a neat companion to its neighbours on the same face.
The route
A four-pitch bolted route that starts 5 m right of Mavrica življenja, crosses it at the shared first belay and finishes up a corner to the left. The first pitch gives the best and hardest climbing, straight up fine slabs at 6a+, and the second has small Dolomite-style runnels. The upper two pitches ease to 5c and 5b. It is the most amenable of the modern lines in this corner of the face.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | 35 m | 9 bolts | Straight up fine slabs. Pass a small overhang on its far right-hand side to reach the belay shared with Mavrica življenja. |
| P2 | 6a | 30 m | 6 bolts | Left across slabs from the belay, then straight up through small Dolomite-style runnels. The belay is on its own on a grassy ledge, 5 m right of Juševa smer. |
| P3 | 5c | 20 m | 4 bolts | Straight up from the belay, then trend gradually left past a slanting yellow patch to a semi-hanging belay. |
| P4 | 5b | 25 m | 5 bolts | Straight up into a corner and follow it to the exit ledge, where there is a belay set up for abseiling. The route Zapeljivka finishes about 3 m to the right. |
Getting there
The face stands directly above the Vršič pass road in the Julian Alps; Kranjska Gora is the nearest town. Park at the pass. Sources describe the scree as running straight from the Vršič car park to the foot of the wall. None of the sources read gives bus or parking-fee details.
From the Vršič pass go straight up to the foot of the south-east face, then right along the wall past Stoletje and Juševa smer (those routes are given 25–30 min). The start is about 5 m right of Mavrica življenja, which itself is about 20 m left of Črni panter.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from plezanje.net crag "Nad Šitom glava, jugovzhodna stena"
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.43890, 13.73931 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil. There are 30 m abseil stations down the route for a single 60 m rope. It can also be done on double ropes in two abseils, but for safety the first ascensionist recommends making the second abseil, from the grassy ledge, down the line of Mavrica življenja rather than Rdeča pentlja. He does not say why.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. There are 30 m abseil stations down the route for a single 60 m rope, and the top belay is set up for abseiling. If you go down on double ropes in two abseils, the first ascensionist says to make the second one, from the grassy ledge, down the Mavrica življenja line for safety.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing, with route altitudes on plezanje.net between about 1,850 and 2,000 m. One area guide notes the face goes into shade after about 14:00, so summer afternoons are cool and spring or autumn give more sun. plezanje.net ascent logs for the face cluster in June to September, with a few in May and October. Drying times are not documented.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −5 | −4 | −0 | 4 | 9 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 6 | 1 | −4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −11 | −11 | −8 | −4 | 0 | 4 | 6 | 6 | 3 | −1 | −5 | −10 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 9 | 11 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 13 | 11 | 12 | 9 |
| Sunshine hours a day | 5.9 | 6.9 | 8.3 | 9.7 | 10.7 | 11.8 | 12.2 | 11.1 | 8.9 | 6.7 | 5.0 | 5.2 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2035 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Single 60 m rope and 9 quickdraws. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Rdeča pentlja.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
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