Multipitch Atlas

Mangart (Julian Alps)

Slovenia

Mangart (2,679 m) stands on the Slovenian-Italian border in the Julian Alps. The highest road in Slovenia climbs to the Mangart saddle at about 1,900 m, where there is a toll road, parking and a hut, so the limestone west face is reached in an hour or two on foot. Modern bolted multi-pitch routes on this face are described in the Slovenian guide 'Modern multi-pitch climbs'. It is a high alpine setting: the season is short, cloud makes the approach hard to find, and descents use the marked via ferrata paths.

Route
1
Grade span
6b
Longest route: Briljantina
400 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Loading map

Mangart west face

Climate figures for Mangart (Julian Alps) are not available yet

1 route

Routes in Mangart (Julian Alps)

Mangart seen from the path above the Mangart saddle: the pale limestone dome that Briljantina climbs, above its scree apron.

Slovenia · Mangart (Julian Alps)

Briljantina

A long bolted climb up the west face of Mangart, starting at about 2,180 m and finishing near 2,580 m. Two 60 m pitches of 6a open the route and the first half is the best; a 6b corner that can be aided is the crux. An alpine outing with a tricky approach in cloud and rock that is not always perfect.

6b10 pitches400 m

Read the cautions

Local words

At the crag and in town

Slovenian

vrv
rope
komplet
quickdraw
svedrovec
bolt
varovališče, štant
belay, anchor
raztežaj
pitch
Zapri!
Take!
Popusti!
Slack!
Kamen!
Rock!

Slovenia

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