Multipitch Atlas

Verdon

France

Europe's great limestone gorge. Away from the famous vertical walls, the Malines sector above the Chalet de la Maline has easier bolted pillar routes that start almost from the road. La Palud-sur-Verdon is the base. Climb in spring and autumn, because the south-facing walls bake in summer.

Routes
3
Grade span
4cto6c+
Longest route: Golondrina
300 m

Where and when

Location and climate

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Malines sector, Verdon gorge rim · 822 m

Monthly climate averages for Verdon, 1991-2020
MeasureJanFeb (usual season)Mar (usual season)Apr (usual season)May (usual season)Jun (usual season)JulAugSep (usual season)Oct (usual season)Nov (usual season)Dec
Mean daily high °C781114182326262116118
Mean daily low °C−1−21481214141173−1
Rain days 1 mm or more778121185689108
Sunshine hours a day7.28.59.810.912.213.814.012.710.78.77.26.9

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 822 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

3 routes

Routes in Verdon

The Herbetto ridge in the Imbut sector of the Verdon, seen from the Imbut path

France · Verdon

L'Herbetto

The easiest way to climb out of the Verdon gorge: a long, wandering ridge of short pitches at grade 3 and 4 that starts close to the river and finishes near the rim road. The climbing is modest but the setting is the full Verdon. You walk down a steep path with fixed ropes to reach the start, so the route is your way back up.

4c9 pitches180 m

Read the cautions

Pitch 4 (6a+) of Dans les Yeux d'Hervé: compact grey Verdon limestone

France · Verdon

Dans les Yeux d'Hervé

Seven pitches of compact grey water-pocketed wall high above the mouth of the Verdon gorge, with a view over the Lac de Sainte-Croix. It zigzags a great deal, so both leader and second need to be happy on traverses. A short, bouldery 6c+ bulge (6a/A0) is the only move above 6b+, and the final pillar pitch is the highlight.

6c+7 pitches160 m

Committing

Overview of the Malines cliff, Verdon

France · Verdon

Golondrina

A modern (2019) line up a staircase of limestone pillars above the Chalet de la Maline, with short walking links between them. Harder than its old 6a grade suggests: recent parties report obligatory 6a+/6b moves on the first three pitches, and the last pitch is 6b+ or A0.

6b+10 pitches300 m

Read the cautions

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

France

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