Multipitch Atlas

Bavella

France

Bavella is the massif of pink granite needles around the Col de Bavella in southern Corsica, between Zonza and Solenzara. The rock is rough, compact granite sculpted into tafoni, flared cracks and friction slabs. Most climbing lies along the D268 on the Solenzara side of the col, with approaches on faint, cairned paths that often take longer than expected. Spring and autumn are the seasons. Corsican bolting is traditionally sparse and many routes need cams and slings for threads, so fully bolted lines are the exception.

Route
1
Grade span
7a
Longest route: Acqua in bocca
300 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Bavella are not available yet

1 route

Routes in Bavella

Teghie Lisce, Bavella, with the belays of Acqua in bocca marked in red

France · Bavella

Acqua in bocca

A sampler of everything Bavella granite does: a technical 7a wall, layback and jamming cracks, an off-width, a squeeze slot behind a tree, and three pitches of pure friction slab to finish. Bolted well enough to climb on quickdraws, which is rare here. The wide pitches are awkward and bruising if you are not used to the style.

7a10 pitches300 m

Read the cautions

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

France

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