Noafer Bichl (Glaning, Bolzano) · Bolzano & South Tyrol · Italy
Read the cautionsBail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
The easy classic of the Noafer Bichl: slabs, a neat corner and two pitches up a pocketed pillar edge, with Bolzano below and the Dolomites on the horizon. Grade 4 climbing throughout, but with some long gaps between bolts on the easy ground.
Bolted with linked belays, but the easy ground has wide bolt spacing, so it is not a route for a first-time leader despite the grade.
The route
The right-hand bolted route on the porphyry wall below the Gasthof Noafer in Glaning, above Bolzano. Seven pitches of slab, corner and pillar climbing at 4a to 4c, separated by two easy linking pitches, lead to the cliff top a few minutes from the inn. Camptocamp calls it the local classic for its access and friendliness. It is not a pure clip-up: both sources say the bolts are spaced on the easy sections. The landowners at the Noafer allowed the routes to be equipped and ask for considerate parking.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | – | Climb up left to the tree, traverse right under the steep rock and go up the slab. |
| P2 | 3 | – | Easy ground. The line was changed here: the left-hand way is about grade 3, a right-hand variation is UIAA 6- (about 5c). |
| P3 | 4b | 5 bolts | Easy at first, then a good steep corner. |
| P4 | 2 | – | An easy link, straight up then left, following a fixed rope. |
| P5 | 4a | – | The crest of the pillar on pocketed rock. The belay at the end is hidden in a hollow and you see it late. |
| P6 | 4b | – | Continue up the pillar; the best pitch. |
| P7 | 4b | – | Straight up stepped slabs, then right over a step below a steep wall: at the third bolt move right, and the fourth bolt appears a long way above. A few steep moves before the top. |
Getting there
From Bolzano drive towards Jenesien (San Genesio) and follow signs to Glaning; after about 3.5 km signs lead to the Gasthaus Noafer (775 m). Do not park directly in front of the inn, which needs the spaces for guests: park lower down by the pasture or above on the access road. Sleeping in vehicles or camping at the car park is forbidden. You can also walk up from Bolzano (Moritzing) on path 11B.
About 30 min, downhill. From the Gasthaus Noafer follow path 11B down, staying on the forest road with concreted wheel tracks. At about 590 m, where trees arch over the track, there is usually a cairn on the right. A steep path starts there and leads straight to the foot of the rock. The start is at a tree with a sling (camptocamp: a rope about 5 m up) below a ramp.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
GPS line: a line of the whole day, including the climb and the descent drawn by its source, not a recorded track. Line drawn on the camptocamp route page, not a GPS recording: from the parking near the Gasthaus Noafer down the forest road to the foot of the rock, up the line of the climb and back to the parking. Do not follow it blindly.
GPS line: camptocamp.org contributors · CC BY-SA 3.0Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/sonntagsspaziergang-glaning-bei-bozen
Contains the route point, parking and a GPS line. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.50805, 11.30298 (route base) · Parking: 46.51193, 11.30025
Getting down
On foot, about 15 min. From the top at the 'Herzl' (an old steel heart beside a ruined hut) walk gently uphill above the cliff edge on path traces towards the Gasthof Noafer. At the end descend through the woods to the fence, drop to the approach track and follow it a few steps back to the inn. Camptocamp describes the same exit as going up a little and taking the signed path to the right.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. All belays are on two linked bolts, which makes abseiling plausible, but no source describes it and the route includes a traverse on pitch 1 and a walking link on pitch 4. The top is close to the inn, so most parties simply finish.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east to south facing between about 590 and 820 m. Very hot in summer unless there is wind; bergsteigen.com shows it as climbable nearly all year. A party in August 2024 found very good rock and was glad of a breeze. Bergsteigen.com gives 2 h 30 min for the climb.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 5 | 7 | 11 | 15 | 19 | 23 | 25 | 25 | 21 | 16 | 10 | 6 |
| Mean daily low °C | −5 | −3 | 2 | 5 | 10 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 7 | 2 | −3 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 13 | 12 | 9 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 602 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
10 quickdraws and a single 60 m rope. A few slings for bushes and trees are useful; nuts and cams can only be placed in a few spots.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Sonntagsspaziergang.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Read the cautionsCommitting
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
