Seitner Wände / Seitner Berg (Haselburg, Bolzano) · Bolzano & South Tyrol · Italy
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Steep crack, corner and chimney climbing on porphyry, fully bolted in the middle of a trad crag. Sustained at 6a to 6b with a technical 6b+ first pitch. It stays in the shade until mid-afternoon, which makes it a summer option.
The route
The Seitner Wände above the Haselburg (Castel Flavon) on the southern edge of Bolzano are known for nut-protected crack climbs. This is the exception: seven pitches of classic crack and chimney climbing equipped as a plaisir route, which bergsteigen.com calls perfectly protected. The grades are steady at 6a to 6b, hardest on the first pitch, and those used to jamming and chimneying will find it easier. The artificial footholds added to the cracks are a matter of debate.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b+ | Technical and not easy as a first pitch of the day. |
| P2 | 6b | Do not stop at the first belay; continue to the ledge, where a second belay is better placed for what follows. From there move left along the ledge, which has a cable. |
| P3 | 6a | Traverses right at the start, then follows a pillar. |
| P4 | 6b | Chimney-style climbing, awkward if you are not used to it and physical at the end. |
| P5 | 6b | On pockets, some of them chipped. |
| P6 | 6a | No description published. |
| P7 | 6a | No description published. |
Getting there
In Bolzano go to the Oberau-Haslach (Oltrisarco-Aslago) district on the south side of the city and drive up to the Haselburg / Castel Flavon, where you park (about 320 m). Bolzano has a main-line railway station on the Brenner route.
About 40 min. From the Haselburg follow path no. 3 (the Leiferer Höhenweg) south, first on the tarmac road and then, at a bend, on the path until you are below the walls. Camptocamp describes passing a clearing with boulders, a picnic spot and a shrine. At a cairn leave the path and climb to the single-pitch sector. Go along the wall to the end of the sector and up a steep path with a fixed rope or cable. The route name is written at the base; the neighbouring route to the right, Sabine, has a much larger painted name.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/il-cielo-sopra-bolzano-seitner-waende
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.46674, 11.34594 (route base) · Parking: 46.47543, 11.34374
Getting down
Abseil the route as marked on the topo. At the ledge use the fixed steel cable to move across to the lower station. Then return by the approach path to the Haselburg. Bergsteigen.com allows 1 h 20 min in total.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and all belays are chained. Bergsteigen.com states that retreating by abseil is the safest way down, and that an exposed ledge also allows an escape to the left after the third pitch in an emergency.
Safety
Sun and weather
In the shade until about 14:30 (camptocamp), so suited to warm days; base at roughly 400 to 600 m. Bergsteigen.com gives 4 h for the climb.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Bolzano & South Tyrol are not available yet
What to carry
About 15 quickdraws (bergsteigen.com: 14, or 17 if you add your own beside the fixed ones), two 60 m ropes for the abseils, belay/abseil device, helmet. Camptocamp notes that upper pitches can be linked with a 60 m rope if you carry more quickdraws.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Il Cielo sopra Bolzano.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Bolzano & South Tyrol
The easy classic of the Noafer Bichl: slabs, a neat corner and two pitches up a pocketed pillar edge, with Bolzano below and the Dolomites on the horizon. Grade 4 climbing throughout, but with some long gaps between bolts on the easy ground.
4c7 pitches280 m
Read the cautions
Around 6b+ · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
A sea-level start reached by abseil, then seven short pitches up the seaward face of Pedra Longa. The third pitch is a wildly exposed traverse above a line of roofs; two easy pitches on rock that needs care lead to a technical 6b and 6b+ finish on grey slab.
6b+7 pitches175 m
Turkey · Aladağlar
Often named as the best route in the massif: seven even pitches of 6a to 6b+ that move from delicate slabs and giant flutings through a steep, rough wall to mountain-style ground at the top. The 6b pitches are no harder than the 6a ones, but the bolts are far enough apart to keep you thinking.
6b+7 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A recent, closely bolted line on the Mallo Frechín and a good way to get to know Riglos without being frightened. A stiff 6b+ second pitch that many find nearer 6c, then steep, sustained 6a and 6a+ over a succession of bulges on unpolished rock. You can abseil off from the top.
6b+7 pitches190 m
Spain · Montanejos
Seven varied pitches in two halves split by a big ledge: vertical walls and cracks below, then an overhanging red wall and a traverse on a carpet of sharp little spikes beneath giant roofs. In the sun from the morning, unpolished, with an easy walk down.
6b+7 pitches170 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.