Aguglia di Goloritzè (Baunei) · Sardinia · Italy
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
The harder classic on the Goloritzè spire: compact grey walls and smooth water-drop slabs at 6b to 6b+, then a 6c scoop and an airy finish to a tiny summit above the turquoise bay. Shaded, technical and on the feet.
The route
Sole Incantatore climbs the north to north-east side of the Aguglia di Goloritzè, the 143 m limestone spire above Cala Goloritzè on the Baunei coast. Maurizio Oviglia bolted it in April 1995. It is the natural step up from Easy Gymnopédie, which starts just to its right: more sustained, with two 6b+ pitches of slab and wall and a 6c obligatory at about 6b. The tiny summit has a logbook. It is also the standard abseil line for the spire, so expect traffic.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | 45 m | Start up the polished 5b to 5c corner shared with Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento and go straight on where that route turns left. Pass the first chained anchor after about 10 m (a single-pitch lower-off). A compact slab and an overhang lead to the belay, about 35 m from the ground by one party's measure. Older topos split this into two pitches (V+, then 6b). |
| P2 | 6b+ | – | The grey wall: a strenuous vertical step straight above the belay, an easier section, then another vertical wall to a ledge with vegetation. |
| P3 | 6b+ | – | A superb, smooth slab climbed on friction and movement. Of three bolt lines, take the central one. At the top take the chained belay on the left under the scoop; the chained belay slightly higher on the right takes you off the route. |
| P4 | 6c | – | Through the scoop and overhang directly above the belay on small holds, then the exposed arête and easy rock to the summit. An easier variant (about 6b) moves right over easy rock and comes back left to the arête. Some topos add a short grade III pitch to the top; parties link it. |
Getting there
Base is Baunei. Take the road signed for the Golgo plateau, which climbs in hairpins; after a few kilometres of tarmac turn right on a dirt road signed for Cala Goloritzè and continue to the fenced, paid car park of the Su Porteddu bar.
About 1 hour down, 1 hour 15 to 1 hour 30 back up. From Su Porteddu follow the cairned Cala Goloritzè path up to a small col and then down the long valley to the foot of the spire. At the base take a path on the right that leads straight to the start, which is shared with Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento. The name is written at the foot of the route.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Su Porteddu (camptocamp access point)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43235
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.10733, 9.69007 (crag) · Parking: 40.08323, 9.67844
Getting down
Abseil the route from the summit chain. With 2×50 m, one party went from the top belay to R2 with only a few tens of centimetres of rope to spare, then R2 to R1 and R1 to the ground. Then walk back up to Su Porteddu.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and the belays are chained abseil stations, so you can go down from any of them. A 2024 party did exactly that from below the 6c pitch.
Safety
Sun and weather
North to north-east facing and in shade for much of the day, which makes it possible in warm weather; in summer start early to stay out of the sun. Humid, overcast days make the friction poor low down. Polish is reported at the start and on a few holds: a 2005 party found the route greasy, while 2024 parties say it does not spoil the climbing.
Sun on the wall · N-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Sardinia are not available yet
What to carry
14 quickdraws. 2×50 m ropes or a single 70 m (camptocamp); a logbook entry calls 65 m the bare minimum for a single rope. A 2005 report used a single 60 m rope with shorter pitches. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Sole Incantatore.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Committing
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Around 6c · about 4 pitches
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Read the cautions
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
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Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
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Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.