Kokkinovrachos SE face (left of Mignonette) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
The route
A seven-pitch route from 2022 on the low-angle pillar of Kokkinovrachos, running parallel to and left of Mignonette. Most of it is 5c slab and wall, with one steeper 6a+ wall and crack on P4 and an orange corner to finish. The local route developers describe it as a fully bolted training route that also suits climbing courses. It is a natural step up from Mignonette, with the same descent.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 45 m | A long technical slab that trends left in its second half. |
| P2 | 5c | 20 m | Vertical slab and wall on good holds, well bolted. |
| P3 | 4b | 15 m | An easy ramp, slightly broken, leading to the left of a big boulder. Shared with the original route Kapi. |
| P4 | 6a+ | 30 m | The crux: a steep wall and crack, hardest near the end. Stay on the bolt line; there is loose rock to the sides. The route is listed with an A0 option. |
| P5 | 5c+ | 25 m | Slab and wall. |
| P6 | 5c | 25 m | Pleasant slab. |
| P7 | 5c | 20 m | A steep corner on orange rock with good holds, rejoining the original Kapi for the exit. |
Getting there
Leonidio, east coast of the Peloponnese. Park at the Douvari sector parking, the second hairpin on the road from Leonidio to Vaskina, or walk from the village. This is the access camptocamp describes for the neighbouring Mignonette; the Kapi Reborn pages give no access notes of their own.
Neither source for this route describes the approach. It starts just left of Mignonette, so use that route's approach: about 30 min from the Douvari parking, following red dots right to the cliff and along its base past Ramisi and Mira. There is no name at the base of either route. A 2026 party meaning to climb Mignonette started up Kapi Reborn by mistake, so check the Panjika topo at the base.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap node 13450285322 (Ramisi rock, Kokkinovrachos)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17236, 22.85832 (crag)
Getting down
Two abseils down the face to the right of the route, 30 m then 40 m. Follow the cairns from the top to find them. The developers refer you to the guidebook for details. This matches the gorge abseil line east of Mignonette (large cairn on the cliff edge, red dots, bushy scramble down to a platform). A 2026 party instead walked off over the plateau to the Vaskina road and got a lift down.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
You can abseil the route, but a 2024 report advises against it. P1 is 45 m, so a single 80 m rope will not get you from R1 to the ground in one abseil. There is loose rock beside the line on P4 and broken ground on P3.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-east facing, so sunny and warm from early in the day. Camptocamp gives no season for this route; other sources for the wall give roughly October to April. A March 2024 party had strong wind. Reports took about 3 h for the route.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Leonidio & Kyparissi are not available yet
What to carry
One 80 m rope, 15 quickdraws, helmets.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Kapi Reborn.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.
6c6 pitches200 m
Around 6a+ · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
An airy, mostly left-rising traverse that spirals round the Pedra Longa sea stack to its summit, on water-runnelled grey walls and pocketed white rock right above the sea. It has become one of the most popular routes in Sardinia, so expect queues.
6a+7 pitches190 m
Committing
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A good first route at Riglos: seven sustained 6a pitches on the spur of the Frechín, with a grandstand view of the Visera. Manage rope drag on the wandering first pitch.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Crete
An accessible gorge multi-pitch with views over the canyon, the sea and the little Orthodox chapel. It has steep juggy walls, a short traverse onto an arête and a corner with a jammed block (take care). The rock is less sticky higher up.
6a+7 pitches200 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Thin moves over small bulges, stemming and big jugs on 'cauliflower' limestone. The crux is P6, which ends at a hanging belay. Mountain Project gives the pitches in YDS only (5.8–5.10b), so French pitch grades are not listed; the overall grade is 5.10b (6a+), and some listings give 6b. You can link P3–P4 and P5–P6.
6a+7 pitches152 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
