Kokkinovrachos – Hospital / Red Rock · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
The route
Eight short, mostly vertical pitches on sculpted, abrasive, multi-coloured limestone at the Hospital end of Kokkinovrachos. From P2 the route stays at 6a+ to 6b the whole way, mixing slabs, walls and a little corner climbing. Bolting is close and reports say you cannot scare yourself, but the climbing is continuous and several parties found it a notch harder than Mira. It sits away from the crowded single-pitch sectors, though town noise is constant.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | Topo grade 5c; one 2018 party thought 5b. |
| P2 | 6a+ | – |
| P3 | 6b | A hard move near the top (2025 report). A 2018 party thought 6a+. |
| P4 | 6b | Belay shared with the route Tanais. A 2025 party found this pitch 6b+. |
| P5 | 6b | Hard only at the bottom, then easier; 6a+ according to a 2025 party. |
| P6 | 6b | A 2025 party found this pitch 6b+. |
| P7 | 6a+ | – |
| P8 | 6b | Rock a little less compact on the last pitches. A 2018 party thought 6a+. |
Getting there
Leonidio. Either walk straight up from the centre of the village towards the Red Rock sector (the Hospital and Red Rock sectors are about 20 min from the Health Centre), or park at the second bend on the road to Vaskina (Douvari parking) and follow the level track above town.
From the Douvari parking follow the flat track above Leonidio, pass the start of the Douvari path and continue to a water tank. From there a path climbs towards Red Rock. About 50 m before the foot of the Red Rock single pitches, take a path going right and follow the cliff for about 200 m. The route name is written at the base. No source gives a total time to the start.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap way 1454163632 (Red Rock, Leonidio)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17254, 22.86256 (crag)
Getting down
Three options appear in the sources. (1) Abseil the route; a 2019 party did this after linking pitches in pairs. (2) Top out and follow goat tracks and red dots across the plateau to a group of farms; the Leonidio to Vaskina road is 100 m above, then 6 km down the road on foot or by hitching. (3) A February 2025 party, using the 2025 Panjika topo, went down 'the two abseils to the left'. From their foot you cannot easily traverse back to Hospital, so they went straight down to the dirt road. They reached Leonidio an hour after topping out.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. Abseiling the route is one of its described descents, and a 2019 party came down that way. The line is fairly straight and the pitches are short. Each belay has two rings and a bolt that are not linked, so thread both rings or equalise them yourself.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing with a lot of sun; the crag record gives October to March. Pitches are short and the line is fairly straight. Parties take 2 to 4 h. The setting is urban and very noisy (traffic, machinery, dogs) according to several reports.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Leonidio & Kyparissi are not available yet
What to carry
70 m rope and 15 quickdraws (camptocamp). To link pitches in pairs, a 2025 party used an 80 m rope and 20 quickdraws with no drag problems. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Aghios Lemmy.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.
6c6 pitches200 m
Around 6b · about 8 pitches
Croatia · Omiš
A long, varied line of slabs, corners and ledgy traverses up the middle of Ilinac. MP and plezanje.net count the pitches differently (7 vs 8) because they split the short easy top pitches differently.
6b8 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Amellago
Seven pitches on very abrasive limestone beside the oued, with swimming holes below. An athletic start to the 6b second pitch; a couple of doubtful flakes on pitches 3 and 4.
6b7 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.