Placche di Oira (Crevoladossola) · Val d'Ossola · Italy
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
Twelve long pitches of sunny gneiss slab above Oira, mostly 4c to 5b+ with two 6a pitches: a thin slab at the start and an athletic corner on pitch 10. Pitches are up to 55 m. A winter-sun route with a summit book and plaques at both ends.
The route
A long plaisir slab route on the south-facing gneiss above the village of Oira, at the mouth of the Valle Antigorio north of Domodossola. The first pitch is one of the two hardest, a slab with a thin crack that fades into delicate friction; after that the pitches run easily until two more physical ones, pitches 9 and 10. The first ascensionists put a great deal of work into cleaning and equipping it. Low altitude and a southern aspect make it a route for the cold half of the year.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 45 m | A slab with a thin crack to start; the crack disappears and the moves become very fine, easing near the top. |
| P2 | 4c | 40 m | A sustained low-angled slab. |
| P3 | 4b | 45 m | Easy slab with an entertaining athletic move. |
| P4 | 5b+ | 50 m | A slab on small holds with one or two thin moves. |
| P5 | 5a | 50 m | Easy slab with some lichen. |
| P6 | 5c | 55 m | An athletic crux below the first bolt, then a good layback and slab with flakes. |
| P7 | 4c | 30 m | A short slab. Belay on a tree according to camptocamp. |
| P8 | 5b+ | 55 m | A varied and attractive pitch along the arete. |
| P9 | 5b | 45 m | A stubborn start (pass the bolt on its right), then slab and an athletic move to finish. |
| P10 | 6a | 45 m | A vertical, athletic corner with good holds in its second half, then a delicate exit onto the slab. |
| P11 | 4c | 45 m | Easy slab. |
| P12 | 3c | 35 m | Low-angled slab to the summit book. |
Getting there
From Domodossola take the main road towards the Valle Antigorio and leave at the first exit for Oira. At the stop sign turn left, then after a few hundred metres right onto the quarry road (via alle cave). An aqueduct tank appears on the left; park there without obstructing the road, which is used by quarry lorries. Domodossola is on the Simplon railway line.
About 45 min with 300 m of ascent. Take the steep path into the woods behind the tanks, marked by cairns and white dots. After crossing a dry stream you reach terraces and continue leftwards up towards a slab. You come up against an impressive wall with bolts on it: that is a different, harder route. Keep going up to the left and after a short distance the start appears on the right, marked by a plaque with a poem.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 305437
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.17872, 8.30965 (crag)
Getting down
Two options. On foot, at least 1 h 30 min and somewhat intricate: from the last belay follow arrows and white dots upwards, go right after a boulder to some ruins reached by an up-and-down passage over easy slabs and through broom (Alpe Balmelle, 10 min). Cross the alp, drop to a spring and take the steep path that traverses to Alpe Nacchino (980 m), then a mule track to the quarries and the gravel road back to the car. By abseil: down the line of ascent, with one abseil to the right at pitch 10 to keep the ropes out of the corner.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The route is equipped for abseiling along the line of ascent, so retreat from any belay is feasible with two 60 m ropes. It is long: from high on the route there are many abseils on low-angled slab, and one of them (at pitch 10) must go to the right to avoid jamming the ropes in the corner.
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-east facing between about 680 and 1175 m. Camptocamp recommends it for winter sun; a party on 19 November found conditions ideal and took 3 h 30 min on the route and 1 h 30 min for the walk down. Too hot in summer.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Val d'Ossola are not available yet
What to carry
15 quickdraws and two 60 m half ropes (gulliver.it). No trad gear. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Il Cammino del Sole.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.