Multipitch Atlas

Croatia

Fully bolted multipitch routes in Croatia, by region. Each route page gives the approach, pitches, descent and usual season.

Routes
11
Regions
3
Pitches
62
Kilometres of rock
1.9
Grade span
5bto7a

Filter routes in Croatia

3 regions

Regions

11 routes

All routes in Croatia

The Ilinac wall above the Cetina near Omiš; Rambo climbs the centre of the face

Croatia · Omiš

Rambo

Omiš's signature moderate: long, slabby pitches on knobbly grey limestone with big views over the Cetina mouth and the Adriatic. The crux is a short crack on the final pitch.

6a6 pitches230 m

The Ilinac wall above the Cetina near Omiš

Croatia · Omiš

Stargate

A long, varied line of slabs, corners and ledgy traverses up the middle of Ilinac. MP and plezanje.net count the pitches differently (7 vs 8) because they split the short easy top pitches differently.

6b8 pitches235 m

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Omiš old town and harbour beneath the limestone cliffs at the mouth of the Cetina

Croatia · Omiš

Forma Piva

Sharp, coral-like rock mixing slab and steep juggy walls, finishing up a crack system. It has the best views in Omiš, over the sea, the river and the old town.

6a+5 pitches200 m

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Climber on pitch 3 of Karamara Sweet Temptations, Veliki Ćuk, above the Paklenica canyon floor

Croatia · Paklenica

Karamara Sweet Temptations

A five-minute approach from the gorge café. There is a polished boulder-problem start, then wandering grooves and an airy traverse on the 6a+ third pitch.

6a+4 pitches110 m

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Climber on Water Song, Veliki Ćuk, with the Paklenica gorge behind

Croatia · Paklenica

Water Song

Classic Paklenica water-groove climbing on beautifully sculpted rock. The crux is a rising crack traverse on P5, with delicate slab moves above.

6a+6 pitches160 m

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Climber on the fluted limestone wall of Dreaming the Lost Friends, Kuk od Skradelin

Croatia · Paklenica

Dreaming the Lost Friends

A short, high-quality modern line: a clean straight first pitch, then a steep crack crux and magnificent water grooves.

6a+5 pitches100 m

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Looking down the lower part of Via Manuela on Rujičin kuk, August 2019

Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)

Via Manuela

Four steep and technical pitches of 6a to 6b+ followed by two easy ones up the water-runnelled top of Rujičin kuk. The hard climbing is on compact, less featured rock than Paklenica and relies on footwork, including two delicate traverses. A quiet inland crag that is far cooler than the coast in summer.

6b+6 pitches145 m

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Croatia · Paklenica

Big Wall Speed Climbing (Tinin raz)

The line used for Paklenica's annual Big Wall Speed Climbing competition: steep, direct and on very rough rock that has stayed unpolished. A sustained 45 m 6c+ pitch on small holds is the crux, followed by sharp runnels, a big corner and three overhangs to finish. Fifteen minutes from the car.

6c+6 pitches200 m

The north face of Anića kuk, Paklenica; Michelini 4 is on the upper part of this face

Croatia · Paklenica

Michelini 4

A short, hard line high on the shady north face of Anića kuk: a steep 6a+, a 7a corner on razor-sharp small edges, a slightly overhanging 6c+ corner and a long finish up water runnels. The rock is sharp and superb from the first metre. Good as a half-day or combined with a neighbour.

7a4 pitches130 m

The north face of Anića kuk, Paklenica, where Alive climbs

Croatia · Paklenica

Alive

Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.

6c8 pitches220 m

Rujičin kuk, Dabarski kukovi

Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)

Velebit Express

The easiest bolted line on the face, up flakes, cracks and water grooves in a wild karst setting. It dries fastest after rain. Pitch grades are from the Čujić topo; camptocamp's ascensionists felt 5b/5c/5b/5b.

5b4 pitches140 m

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