Multipitch Atlas

Big Wall Speed Climbing (Tinin raz)

Debeli kuk – Stup (south-east pillar) · Paklenica · Croatia

Easy to bailBolting confidence: high

The line used for Paklenica's annual Big Wall Speed Climbing competition: steep, direct and on very rough rock that has stayed unpolished. A sustained 45 m 6c+ pitch on small holds is the crux, followed by sharp runnels, a big corner and three overhangs to finish. Fifteen minutes from the car.

Hardest pitch
6c+
Pitches
6
Length
200 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
SE
South-east-facing
Rope
2×50 m

The route

Overview

Tinin raz, better known as Big Wall Speed Climbing after the competition held on it every spring, runs straight up the pillar of Debeli kuk, the first big wall on the left as you walk into the gorge. Each of the six pitches has a different character: a diagonal start, a short bouldery traverse, the long and sustained 6c+ crux, a pitch of razor-edged runnels, a big corner climbed by bridging and a final pitch through three overhangs. The crux can be aided on the bolts, which brings the obligatory grade to about 6a+/6b (UIAA 7- obligatory on bergsteigen.com), although camptocamp records 6c+ obligatory. Competitors climb it in about 20 minutes; a 2017 party took five and a half hours.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P15c30 mDiagonally right. A 2026 plezanje.net comment recommends starting up the slab on the right because the original start in the corner on the left has become overgrown. bergsteigen.com gives 5c+.
P26a+25 mA short bouldery traverse left, then straight up on jugs. 6a on bergsteigen.com and plezanje.net.
P36c+45 mThe crux: sustained on small holds and hard to read, with the hardest move at the exit. Do not follow the bolts blindly; climb up rightwards and then come back left. The crux move can be aided.
P44a30 mWater runnels. The rock is sharp enough to cut.
P56a45 mJugs, then a big corner climbed on positions and bridging.
P65c+45 mThree overhangs, partly overhanging and steep. It looks much harder from below than it is.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Base yourself in Starigrad-Paklenica on the coast road between Rijeka and Zadar (from Zagreb about 235 km by the A1 to the Maslenica exit, then 15 km along the coast). A signed road leaves the eastern end of the village for the national park. Buy a ticket at the entrance (climbers can buy 3-day and 5-day tickets), then drive about 2 km to the last car park at the end of the road.

On foot · about 15 min

15 min. From the last car park walk up the main path into the gorge to the café, until you stand below the wall, which is in full view from there. Go about 20 m up left from the path to the start, at the plaque for the route Diagonalka (follow the sign 'Debeli kuk – Diagonalka').

Finding the route · 1 photo

  • ParkingLooking down from the rocks above onto the car parks along the road in the Velika Paklenica gorge; the walk-in starts from the last car park at the end of the road.Photo: Danilo Tic · CC BY-SA 2.0

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

44.30693, 15.47411

Parking

44.30372, 15.47109

Last car park in the Velika Paklenica gorge (bergsteigen.com map)

Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/big-wall-speed-climbing-debili-kuk-paklenica (marker labelled approximate)

For your phone or watch

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Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Either abseil the route in five abseils with two ropes of at least 50 m, straight back to the start. Or walk: from the top go down northwards (left looking out) to the word 'Abseil' painted in red, make three short abseils, for which a single rope is enough, to the scree, and follow faint tracks back to the start. bergsteigen.com allows 30 min.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

Abseiling the route is one of the two standard descents: five abseils with two ropes of at least 50 m bring you back to the start. All belays are bolted.

Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None documented.
Carry
Two ropes of at least 50 m. Watch for stonefall and rope snags, reported by a 2016 party.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesbergsteigen.com describes the five-abseil descent down the route; camptocamp also gives abseiling the route as the descent.

Safety

Hazards

  • A 2016 party had stonefall during the abseils and a briefly stuck rope; the abseil line goes down the other side of the pillar edge in places, so watch where the ropes run.
  • Bolt spacing is wider than on modern plaisir routes; you need to climb confidently at 6a between bolts.
  • The runnels of pitch 4 are sharp (camptocamp warns that they cut).
  • The route rises directly above the main gorge path and the café; do not knock anything off.

Sun and weather

Conditions

bergsteigen.com gives the aspect as south, camptocamp as south-east. An August 2016 party was glad of shade on the route, so in summer it is climbable at the right time of day, but spring and autumn are the main seasons in Paklenica. The start is at about 200 m altitude. The rock is very rough and not polished despite the competition traffic.

Usual season · Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct

Sun on the wall · SE-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C781216212528282318138
Mean daily low °C003712161818141062
Rain days 1 mm or more11101112118669111312
Sunshine hours a day6.17.69.310.612.113.013.412.710.58.56.45.6

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 262 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

16 quickdraws, two or three slings and two ropes of at least 50 m (bergsteigen.com, which lists no nuts or cams). Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
16
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Big Wall Speed Climbing (Tinin raz).

Worth knowing

Tips

  • bergsteigen.com allows 2 hours for the climb; a 2016 party took 3 hours and a 2017 party of three took 5.5 hours.
  • The route is used for the annual speed-climbing competition; expect it to be busy or unavailable on that weekend.
  • The original left-hand start of pitch 1 is overgrown; use the slab on the right.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch grades: camptocamp gives 5c, 6a+, 6c+, 4a, 6a, 5c+. bergsteigen.com gives 5c+, 6a, 6c+, 4a, 6a, 5c+ and plezanje.net 5c, 6a, 6c+, 4a, 6a, 5c+.
  • Length: 200 m on camptocamp and bergsteigen.com, 220 m on plezanje.net; camptocamp's pitch lengths add up to 220 m.
  • Aspect: south (bergsteigen.com) against south-east (camptocamp).
  • Obligatory grade: camptocamp records 6c+ obligatory, bergsteigen.com 7- UIAA (about 6a+/6b) with the crux aided.
  • The bergsteigen.com page spells the crag 'Debili Kuk'; the correct name is Debeli kuk.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.