Gelbeck east-north-east face (Drusenfluh) · Rätikon (Montafon) · Austria
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Seven long pitches of varied climbing on mostly very good Rätikon limestone above the Lindauer Hütte, UIAA 7 with 7- obligatory. The last two pitches are very athletic and exposed. Well bolted, but the setting is high and remote.
The route
Sorgafresser climbs the east-north-east face of the Gelbeck, a buttress of the Drusenfluh above the Lindauer Hütte. The first ascensionists describe it as bolted in the best way, with many varied passages on mostly very good rock in a fine setting. It has seven pitches of up to 55 m and is graded UIAA 7 (about 6b to 6b+) with 7- obligatory, so you cannot pull through the hard moves. The last two pitches are very athletic and exposed. With a 2.5 hour walk to the hut it is best done from an overnight stay.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | – | Not described individually in open sources. |
| P2 | – | Not described individually in open sources. |
| P3 | – | Not described individually in open sources. |
| P4 | – | Rough rock that can be climbed even when not fully dry. A few bolts on the right allow a bypass when it is very wet. |
| P5 | – | The slab ramp. Above this point you no longer retreat down the route itself. |
| P6 | – | Very athletic and exposed. |
| P7 | – | Very athletic and exposed. |
Getting there
From Bludenz turn off for the Montafon and drive to Tschagguns, then right up to Latschau and the car park at the Lünerseewerk power station by the Golmerbahn (about 990 m). By public transport: bus line 1 from Tschagguns station to "Latschau Golmerbahn Talstation".
From the Lünerseewerk walk up the Gauertal to the Lindauer Hütte (2 h 30). From the hut take the path towards the Öfapass; after the first steep step turn left towards the Eistobel and follow traces of a path, with some cairns, to below the Gelbeck east face, which rises on your right. The start is at the foot of the wall 30 m left of the point where the rock of the north-east face reaches lowest, at about 2080 m. Three quarters of an hour from the hut.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Car park at the Lünerseewerk, Latschau
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/sorgafresser-gelbeck-ost-nordostewand (marker labelled approximate)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.03383, 9.80898 (crag) · Parking: 47.07256, 9.87418
Getting down
Best by abseiling the route Kabarett Drusenfluh: 55 m free-hanging, then 45 m, then 60 m to the ground. Shorter ropes also work, as there are enough stations on the neighbouring routes. Then walk back to the hut and down the Gauertal; bergsteigen.com allows 3 h in all.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The source states that if you need to retreat before the slab ramp (pitch 5) you can abseil the route. From higher up the way down is the abseil line of the neighbouring route Kabarett Drusenfluh, which starts with a 55 m free-hanging abseil; shorter ropes work using other stations.
Safety
Sun and weather
North-east to east facing, base about 2080 m. Season June to September. Aim for dry conditions.
Sun on the wall · NE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Rätikon (Montafon) are not available yet
What to carry
16 quickdraws, extension slings, and 60 m double ropes, which are an advantage for the abseils but not essential. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Sorgafresser.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Around 6b+ · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
A sea-level start reached by abseil, then seven short pitches up the seaward face of Pedra Longa. The third pitch is a wildly exposed traverse above a line of roofs; two easy pitches on rock that needs care lead to a technical 6b and 6b+ finish on grey slab.
6b+7 pitches175 m
Turkey · Aladağlar
Often named as the best route in the massif: seven even pitches of 6a to 6b+ that move from delicate slabs and giant flutings through a steep, rough wall to mountain-style ground at the top. The 6b pitches are no harder than the 6a ones, but the bolts are far enough apart to keep you thinking.
6b+7 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Bolzano & South Tyrol
Steep crack, corner and chimney climbing on porphyry, fully bolted in the middle of a trad crag. Sustained at 6a to 6b with a technical 6b+ first pitch. It stays in the shade until mid-afternoon, which makes it a summer option.
6b+7 pitches190 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A recent, closely bolted line on the Mallo Frechín and a good way to get to know Riglos without being frightened. A stiff 6b+ second pitch that many find nearer 6c, then steep, sustained 6a and 6a+ over a succession of bulges on unpolished rock. You can abseil off from the top.
6b+7 pitches190 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.